tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41802914314661541262024-02-20T08:18:15.854-08:00boring in berlinSometimes it's good to be boring.
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-54398831516838940622017-12-27T04:48:00.000-08:002017-12-28T12:37:30.437-08:00The most boring Bezirk in Berlin? A homage to Zehlendorf<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's Christmas, and I'm leaving Berlin again. I've said goodbye to Berlin so often that it's become comical; everyone knows that I will never really leave, and never really stay. But it's taken me much longer to realise the truth of it. This city has been my home for longer than anywhere else in the world. And like every home, there are corners of it that are particularly home, that you don't realise have made you what you are until you start to leave them. Zehlendorf is one of those corners.</div>
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I've always lived in and out of Zehlendorf, passed through it (in the old days, as fast as possible) on the way from the city to Kleinmachnow, when I lived there, or from Kleinmachnow to the city, on the way to school or university or to the breathtaking, almost unbearable excitement of a night out. I'd hurry from bus to S-Bahn or from S-Bahn to bus, anxious to get through this most boring of <i>Bezirke </i>as soon as possible on my way to somewhere <i>real</i>, as I felt it to be then, like, say, Neukoelln or Zoo. Yet then something changed. No, <i>I</i> changed. Perhaps I became more real myself, and began to notice other realities more as a result. And through all the changes, through all the excitement, the many moves and dislocations I've undergone in this and other cities, Zehlendorf has always been there, in its particular reality, reliably, almost unchangingly (changing less, perhaps, than it ought to have done); one might say, <i>boringly</i>.</div>
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And plenty of people would say just that. Zehlendorf, for many Berliners, is possibly the most boring <i>Bezirk </i>in the whole city. Although technically speaking, Zehlendorf is no longer a Bezirk in its own right. In a municipal shake-up in 2001, as Wikipedia notes with a resigned sigh on its page called "Berlin Administrative Districts" (a subject so tortuously, incomprehensibly dull as to make even Wikipedia blanch), it ceased to be a Bezirk and was downgraded to an "Ortsteil"; a place for which Wiki can find no other definition than "a place that has its own identity".</div>
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Well, thank you Wiki, it certainly has. But not the one you might think. Zehlendorf's reputation for staid, respectable wealth and
snobbishness is only one part of the story. Its joys are manifold, likewise its mediocrities,
its absurdities and its irritations. And you don't have to be a cool kid from Neukoelln or a punk from Friedrichshain to find parts of it alienating - Wannsee for example, where vast villas with never a soul to be seen
blankly shine their dead eyes towards the lake, huge cars purr their way
through empty roads and yachts sail across the blue bay while unfathomable money talks its
way into and out of everything. But here in Zehlendorf proper, we are not like
that. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzG8E03Hc1fSglx37-0jNlhgEyGIvOEFmayhJl8mjLm7lhyphenhyphenAU2Gq5X509xnNaYIxFQQ7RrRVteONtlObl2UYd1GGI7DjcpX3jt9wXgNegJSe1D5eduuGq8bi4Yfay45APGhs9HZaufjoA/s1600/IMG_2294.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzG8E03Hc1fSglx37-0jNlhgEyGIvOEFmayhJl8mjLm7lhyphenhyphenAU2Gq5X509xnNaYIxFQQ7RrRVteONtlObl2UYd1GGI7DjcpX3jt9wXgNegJSe1D5eduuGq8bi4Yfay45APGhs9HZaufjoA/s320/IMG_2294.JPG" width="320" /></a>In Zehlendorf proper, that is,
the small town centre of Zehlendorf from where the S-Bahn has been taking me
into the city or out to the lakes and the forests for over 25 years now, we are a mixed bunch. We like the certainties of our
little town, the Turkish greengrocers at the bottom of the S-Bahn
steps endlessly chanting the sweetness of their mangos or in winter, of their
clementines (Suess suess suess, mango mango mango!) and exchanging "Guten Tag"s with the young families on their way to school, while inside, the women
dole out hummus or tsatsiki or figs and you pay for your vegetables amidst
piles of pumpkins and crates of cauliflowers. We like going to Butter Lindner where on a
Saturday you stand forever in the queue while middle-aged, well-dressed Germans
lurk shiftily, trying to steal a march while you're not looking and get their bread
rolls, croissants and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Stollen</i> before
you do, while their womenfolk in upmarket furs or down at heel padded jackets
wait to be served by young, glittering, disillusioned waiters with sliced veal,
caviar or Italian ham. The cheaper bakeries up the street where elderly men
stand alone at red linoleum tables drinking coffee and frowning at their cheap newspapers, and contractors, staring
off into the middle distance with fatigue, munch on sausage and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Schrippen</i>. The <i>Tchibo </i>where middle-aged
couples sit at the bar for hours chatting over that epitome of the German shopping experience, <i>Tchibo
</i>coffee, or wandering the shop in search of reduced leisurewear or Christmas
candle-holders. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0UCgk82DL5m572_2dNt3NstAx3SLNYL45NoGcWoEYIwTEpWeDZQ_FkFQqqWxaldA8t3huRci4i8isuVgl9cC8PYW1DrVFm0unSgEjHmbHyFMD7U7fzGX8vKapiX9OWywkisjsgIh_y_Q/s1600/IMG_2335.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0UCgk82DL5m572_2dNt3NstAx3SLNYL45NoGcWoEYIwTEpWeDZQ_FkFQqqWxaldA8t3huRci4i8isuVgl9cC8PYW1DrVFm0unSgEjHmbHyFMD7U7fzGX8vKapiX9OWywkisjsgIh_y_Q/s320/IMG_2335.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Butter Lindner at Christmas.</td></tr>
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The accordeon man with the bad teeth and cloth cap who is there
summer and winter outside the now closed Commerzbank, endlessly smiling, in all
weathers, forever playing the same tune. The respectable mid-range clothes shops with their
anxious lady shop assistants, unsure whether their customers are rich or poor (it
can be hard to tell in Zehlendorf, where respectability demands that one makes
an effort, no matter what one's circumstances), alongside the little independent
bookseller-cum-chocolatier with
its delicately assorted books and every imaginable kind
of chocolate, always full of enthusiastic Zehlendorfers (mostly women in the
bookshop, more men in the chocolate shop). We even like the strange
designer, organic clothing shops where the sales lady eyes you suspiciously as
you stare in the window, trying to work out why the skirt on display costs 300
euros. (There is a reason. As the shop-owners know, the need to be thrifty wages perpetual war with the need to display one' s
well-to-do-ness in the hearts of elderly Zehlendorf women, determinedly donning
their smart heeled shoes even though they know they will need a Zimmer frame to
get on the bus, while in their conversations, they cunningly vie for the moral
high ground while shamelessly stepping in front of any young people who might
have the audacity to be before them in a queue.)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up Zehlendorf high street</td></tr>
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All these things I will miss,
more than I could have thought possible 25 years ago when I first learned to
stand patiently, or not so patiently, outside the Volksbank waiting for a 101
bus. (The 101 does not go to Kleinmachnow, where I first lived, so I always had to get off it at the crossroads and walk another half hour home, but it
is a proper Berlin bus, run by the BVG, so I feel able to lay claim to it; it
is and has always been my bus.) Back then I never noticed the other passengers; in the obscuring fug of my twenty-something self-absorption, those people didn't
even exist.</div>
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Now
things are different. I am older, of course, perhaps myself on the way to
becoming one of those stalwart elderly women whose beliefs, political passions, habits, manners (or
lack of them) are as certain and reliable as the S-Bahn; more so, actually. I
have learned to cherish the fact that I see the same people most days; that the
shops and their owners make an effort to invite you in, to be pleasant; that as
soon as one o'clock strikes, the streets flood with over-excited
school-children gossiping, shouting, teasing, eating, dreaming and drifting
their way home. I like the fact that people of all ages stop to chat on the high street, exchanging political views or family news. I like the way that there are little cafes full of people who know each other, and that there are music groups, reading groups, a library that is busy every day, but also a kebab shop, a Lidl, bicycle shops and shoe-mending shops. I like it being boring, because it is not; because there are
pockets of interest wherever you look, in people's everyday lives, people who
are not absorbed, as I was, just in themselves, but in the life all around
them. But now we are leaving. </div>
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We are going to Mitte for two
months; a temporary flat before we leave Berlin for a while to go back to the UK. I am scared, but excited too. What will
it mean, being at home in the centre of town? Well... I suddenly realise it. One
thing won't change. We'll be on another border. Here, we' re five minutes
from where the Wall once cut Berlin off from Teltow, Potsdam, Kleinmachnow
itself; where the 101 came, and still comes, to its end, unable to go further; we live with the trees, the canal, overgrown paths, secret places where
those who slipped through were forever suspicious, and only staying in one
place could keep you, theoretically, safe. But now we will be at that place
where Berlin was cut off from itself. On Bernauer Strasse, where the front door
of your house marked the border; where the Wall ran down the middle of the
street, where tunnels criss-crossed the earth, where Conrad Schumann jumped to
the West over the barbed wire, where people died as they tried
to escape across the death strip and families saw each other reflected in
warped mirrors, one street to another, one world to another a minute apart.
It's not boring. It's dislocating, disturbing, at the edge of what one can imagine and yet one has to try to imagine it, and beyond it
all Berlin's skyline drifts into transcendence, into the vagueness of all
cities at dusk, and there won't be elderly women to annoy and comfort me as I
make my way along the streets, because they've been mostly forced out by the
young tourists, the start-ups and the investors who've been buying up and colonising
the area. But that's a whole other story. For now it's enough to bid farewell to Zehlendorf, knowing that inevitably, one day sooner or later, I will be back. Thank you for being boring.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life, compacted</td></tr>
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<br />islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-33111311732504060232017-10-14T08:33:00.001-07:002017-10-14T08:33:24.594-07:00We live in different cities<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5PDcthB0YrZoWxEym5PBdSTVognsXm6U9hbMhKt8hlBCupzgY-cVTVNxVqm_Dy29zFk1f2Iv5HaKhAYfF4ndWF8a7waGf-rgG5EXivzYat6N4Edi4ryJdauivGEiHi55lIo6DNw0VdU4/s1600/P1090089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5PDcthB0YrZoWxEym5PBdSTVognsXm6U9hbMhKt8hlBCupzgY-cVTVNxVqm_Dy29zFk1f2Iv5HaKhAYfF4ndWF8a7waGf-rgG5EXivzYat6N4Edi4ryJdauivGEiHi55lIo6DNw0VdU4/s320/P1090089.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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I am cycling
home on a windy autumn night, leaves blowing across my path, seen patchily and
scrappily in occasional lamplight that seems to thread through the branches
like the wind itself. I am carried in and out of darkness, and now as it gets
later there nothing and no-one on the roads but me. The wind rustles and groans
in the trees around me, but otherwise it is silent except for the regular
revolve of the bike chain and the squeak of the pedals. </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I am approaching the border.
Just to my right was once forbidden territory, East Germany running alongside West
Berlin. The last houses veer off to my left, their lights extinguished. I am
thinking of home, not far now, a freewheel through a few more streets at the
edge of Berlin, then warmth and light and bed. </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Suddenly, a hundred yards ahead
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dark, a wild boar gallops across the road. Silently, out of the shadows,
through the yellow light of a streetlamp, hedged round with darkness, and into
the shadows again. Its silhouette is a single furious mass of direction and
speed as it swerves across the street, and I can't see the gleam of its eye,
just the shape of its tusks, its heavy head, its short, fast legs, the
intensity of its whole body leaning into its speed as it runs alone into the
woods and is gone, gone into a blackness that I nearly cycled into a few
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to my right, looking into the dark to try to see it, but I don't slow down in
case it comes back. The thought of the boar stays with me, that night and the
next day and the days thereafter, the image of its desperate shape, hurtling
into the night as I waited motionless on the dark road. Each of us alone, and
separate, and scared, but also intent on home, going somewhere the other had no
idea of. </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A few days later, I am chatting
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know about this city. She was talking about a bus trip she'd taken to get to
somewhere or other, a totally unimportant conversation, but I realised I'd
never taken that bus to get to that particular place. "And then we went
past..." My friend named a theatre I'd never heard of, a shop I'd never seen.
And I realised that we live in completely different cities. Not metaphorically, but
actually. Her city is different to mine, although there are points where they
intersect, names they share, buses that go through both of them. So, I thought,
does that mean there are three and a half million different Berlins, not just
the one? And I thought of how no-one, not one single person in Berlin was there
when the wild boar ran past. No-one saw it but me. </div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We live in different cities,
millions of us living alongside each other, each of us alone. But from one
city, you could find a way into another, perhaps. Unless something stops you. A wall built by people who think that everyone lives in fixed,
determined groups, in a single city bounded by unchanging beliefs, that one person,
one group, cannot possibly cross into the city of another. Or belief itself; a
belief that colour, race, politics somehow puts certain people on one side of
this wall, while certain people are on the other. But everyone around you, everyone
you think is sharing your city, is in fact in a city of their own, intent on a
home no-one else can see, no-one else can even know; intent on a journey
through streets, voices, conversations, loves and hates, that they alone can
inhabit.</div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"></span>It's not lonely. It's a gift.
My world is not the only world. There are millions more, just beyond my
thinking, just out there in the dark.</div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-75310959944194312752017-08-13T04:49:00.002-07:002017-08-13T05:08:37.386-07:00The Chapel of Light aka, When Not to Take Pictures<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjGiApVbG9EJl_eUkdfvTiKsWKVniezOQzk6m1fKZ4DeU1mtTWvRCosEkTmp_9Vpz86hv9YZt8FjLThYDHIf9K6BlG6gsJIa-ruQ3q4gotZn-JmKD84oP1M7zStdfokIfaZqfFT3MimJ0/s1600/IMG_1308.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjGiApVbG9EJl_eUkdfvTiKsWKVniezOQzk6m1fKZ4DeU1mtTWvRCosEkTmp_9Vpz86hv9YZt8FjLThYDHIf9K6BlG6gsJIa-ruQ3q4gotZn-JmKD84oP1M7zStdfokIfaZqfFT3MimJ0/s320/IMG_1308.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
Hidden away like a precious secret, or a memory, at the centre of Berlin, there is a small, quiet space, surrounded and protected by tall dark trees within a
tall grey wall. You can only find it by making your way through a tangle of
tramlines, empty spaces where buildings once stood, tourist cafes, U-Bahns and
roads busy with lorries going in and out of the Charité hospital. But the Dorotheenstadt
cemetery on Chausseestrasse is a bit like the Tardis – once you go in, it feels bigger than it did
from the outside, and you start to forget that the outside is even there. I felt I could easily stay there til dusk, content to fall asleep next to the calm gravestones and
sheltering trees.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVLpJeZ3iV-0BOVn8BnpDtGQneHaBw__CgfzdjjWDChw9yot7UxrSAf8BLlpBhBxxHBE-t2lZ3ja9qxtYrVd-q8c54Om4plmmEbzl3xtg9slY0e2Tw3ZXoPdtPxIIn5qG2vzJldk82j8/s1600/IMG_1305.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVLpJeZ3iV-0BOVn8BnpDtGQneHaBw__CgfzdjjWDChw9yot7UxrSAf8BLlpBhBxxHBE-t2lZ3ja9qxtYrVd-q8c54Om4plmmEbzl3xtg9slY0e2Tw3ZXoPdtPxIIn5qG2vzJldk82j8/s320/IMG_1305.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
Although I
had never even heard of it until this year, it's a famous place, a place suffused
with Berlin memories and histories.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stories
about Berlin suddenly become less abstract, more human, as I see the names of
the people buried here: Bertoldt Brecht, Helene Weigel, Dietrich Bonhoeffer, Berlin's architects Schinkel and Stüler, Johann Borsig (one of Berlin´s first industrialists, the factories named after him are still going); the writers Anna
Seghers and Christa Wolf, the GDR dramatist Heiner Müller, Sven Lehmann of "Herr
Lehmann" fame (actor and poet late of Kreuzberg, dead at 42), Gisele May (actress
of Berlin renown, dead at 90-odd after a last stint on the Ku'damm); poets and actors, architects and politicians, philosophers and men of industry (not to mention the man who invented the pillars you put adverts on in Germany, Mr. Litfass). Their
Berlin bones all lie here and speak to us of Berlin itself. Brecht and Helene Weigel lived next door when they
returned to Germany; Johann Borsig worked here a century earlier in a huge grey
house that survived the bombs and still bears his name above the pompous, larger
than life statue that decorates the façade. People bring flowers (or cigars, or whisky, or photographs of Ibiza) and leave them
for their heroes or heroines.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOFCU9dMqGyxSQ16NI-lo6AOJ9mgl8w5WfvuMHkBVWkp7TPPrRykJ7wR7ZXg_naxo5Y3O5KJWp7X0oZ1lvHg60go_GdqKsVlQ2wVPGpQICn8sdU7MJfzZ3UYLSmzRIBUb4iRq19oMniE/s1600/IMG_1301.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdOFCU9dMqGyxSQ16NI-lo6AOJ9mgl8w5WfvuMHkBVWkp7TPPrRykJ7wR7ZXg_naxo5Y3O5KJWp7X0oZ1lvHg60go_GdqKsVlQ2wVPGpQICn8sdU7MJfzZ3UYLSmzRIBUb4iRq19oMniE/s320/IMG_1301.JPG" width="240" /></a> But it
is surprisingly quiet. When I went there first, on my own, a couple of months
back, there was hardly anyone about. The noise of the city seemed to suddenly dim as I made my way through the gates and up the sandy paths towards the little cafe. A large black cat with stripy paws
like monochrome socks was licking its paws casually in the middle of the path. A Berlin-chic, middle-aged
couple with leather jackets and bleached hair argued quietly over coffee before continuing their argument amongst the gravestones, but they turned out to be the people who look after the graves (obviously
even the volunteers are glamorous). Some Japanese tourists with black umbrellas clutched coffee as they stood uncertainly by some of the more imposing graves. All these people, and the cat, kept
disappearing and reappearing out of the little paths as I wandered slowly from
place to place absorbing the strangeness and quiet of it all, as if the cemetery liked to keep its visitors to itself; they seemed a long way away. It felt as though
a thirst I didn't know I had was being slaked; a thirst for stillness,
continuity, a sense of the past, a sense that people's bodies are still connected
to the earth and the trees, even in this most disconnected of cities.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjVUKeuOf7yBeeTOfajz_cX8nyOAKz1HiCiv2ZmCIP82NfuVqSdlU6gp9IBo2MgZMN9C9zPjg-6FleIzWzqjuS4ZBSixL846HwZNftoVtnG9ExcvqHd7vZRqNOTx8RsNaJ_tIgpt9NNJc/s1600/IMG_1312.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjVUKeuOf7yBeeTOfajz_cX8nyOAKz1HiCiv2ZmCIP82NfuVqSdlU6gp9IBo2MgZMN9C9zPjg-6FleIzWzqjuS4ZBSixL846HwZNftoVtnG9ExcvqHd7vZRqNOTx8RsNaJ_tIgpt9NNJc/s320/IMG_1312.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gravestone of the poet Becher</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_82osca8lxwrVZBiLe7X1hyFDu7A1IYLzfKFAELnInrPz-CVQ3xcCt6xhxCDSH8_X9PTNANOqK9BlapfLpuYn9WhnS9rVlfutXuevsK-ERQTrm10Ai5BJpdqEd_Jo1lVPm5Z41voJRBQ/s1600/IMG_1313.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_82osca8lxwrVZBiLe7X1hyFDu7A1IYLzfKFAELnInrPz-CVQ3xcCt6xhxCDSH8_X9PTNANOqK9BlapfLpuYn9WhnS9rVlfutXuevsK-ERQTrm10Ai5BJpdqEd_Jo1lVPm5Z41voJRBQ/s320/IMG_1313.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two ladies buried together...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRorKqyjozDbpuci-Qq6o3YBwzcEBKkPiS_Vz7QJZwscOzc8mLfYV0ILLxffsOxJsXOask4nsQ99KwwknU1VCcJ3Z7IGlI6nby0-uSfr1DFpTFOERqsN1fWvw2ZwOlzO0KvNC-9KyEqE/s1600/IMG_1319.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiRorKqyjozDbpuci-Qq6o3YBwzcEBKkPiS_Vz7QJZwscOzc8mLfYV0ILLxffsOxJsXOask4nsQ99KwwknU1VCcJ3Z7IGlI6nby0-uSfr1DFpTFOERqsN1fWvw2ZwOlzO0KvNC-9KyEqE/s320/IMG_1319.JPG" width="240" /></a> But there's also an oddly futuristic element to it. Again like the Tardis, the strange simultaneity of history is conspicuous, bringing you smack bang up against the odd nature of past and future everywhere. Towards
the back of the cemetery is a wall commemorating the family of the Austrian
Ambassador in the nineteenth century; he and his wife are buried there with their
five French-sounding daughters, who all predeceased them in the space of months. Yet, the wall is also marked with the scars of
shells fired in the last days of the Second World War. Just along the way, a
delicate pillar marks Schinkel´s tomb, surprisingly modest, recalling for us an elegant, enlightened Berlin. But his life overlapped with the industrial revolution right here on this street. Johann Borsig, buried a few yards away, built one of Berlin's first factories on the corner of Chausseestrasse itself, shortly before Schinkel's death, and evidently enjoyed bombast;
in a disconcerting homage to Schinkel, Borsig's tomb is designed like a miniature opera house, complete with a miniature copy of
Schinkel's design for The Magic Flute decorating the interior of its dome. It also has a touchingly large stone plate commemorating his wife: a Prussian, not
overly elegant matron in stone, surrounded by cherubs.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MgCZF53D0DBGEQY56yYnnVRQgIuWkv3lY2A9EVFX4dS5uQlJB1izc4IXk_74Y9ltFUjPgfLqHslnkF0buE9bHixISWvGz0kVCF0M6L9uuC87oH0yjnmlCMCph8FCmviJJvIQwmJxqAA/s1600/IMG_1322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_MgCZF53D0DBGEQY56yYnnVRQgIuWkv3lY2A9EVFX4dS5uQlJB1izc4IXk_74Y9ltFUjPgfLqHslnkF0buE9bHixISWvGz0kVCF0M6L9uuC87oH0yjnmlCMCph8FCmviJJvIQwmJxqAA/s320/IMG_1322.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schinkel's tomb (front)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ciqzXXmHcuUJyWzBu942x5oy_e7if01BytaBsOTKkBet3mTyFkHdWh2lRC9C0NWCFxbtVEIJjiQaYwY8JGmwfAGFqp-QYetFijvtR1cSUXMYDSlq6yGtg0bSGPMcalH5wurKsRibW1M/s1600/IMG_1324.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ciqzXXmHcuUJyWzBu942x5oy_e7if01BytaBsOTKkBet3mTyFkHdWh2lRC9C0NWCFxbtVEIJjiQaYwY8JGmwfAGFqp-QYetFijvtR1cSUXMYDSlq6yGtg0bSGPMcalH5wurKsRibW1M/s320/IMG_1324.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borsig's tomb and the memorial plate to his wife; Stuler's grave beyond, left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC1_a71fvBbVUyexL6IwZ_i5ErTHHS3bej3grSMm9yaF-bQULpNOIgIkYc76GCx1zT8hDRUtOx81G-0bDXf8u3roOhtoBFQJn1YHwb_MhQcGPeDLuqZypmC_DwMmtvYUI_St61tAdQwgc/s1600/borsighaus+deutsche+zahnaerztekammer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1422" data-original-width="1600" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC1_a71fvBbVUyexL6IwZ_i5ErTHHS3bej3grSMm9yaF-bQULpNOIgIkYc76GCx1zT8hDRUtOx81G-0bDXf8u3roOhtoBFQJn1YHwb_MhQcGPeDLuqZypmC_DwMmtvYUI_St61tAdQwgc/s320/borsighaus+deutsche+zahnaerztekammer.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Borsig-Haus, Chausseestrasse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
But as you
enter the cemetery, one thing stands out oddly, a bright white plain building that
at first glance appears to have no particular relation to the rest of the
graveyard. This is the chapel, where we came on a Friday night to see James Turrell´s light
installation, something I´d heard about but never seen. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>James
Turrell is a Canadian artist who specialises in light. Light for him is a revelation of many mysteries and he designed the
installation for Berlin some years ago. Every evening, the light in the chapel
gradually changes, bathing the building, and its visitors, in different
combinations of colour and shadow. Around 50 of us had gathered on the plain
wooden benches inside as it got darker outside. One of the guides introduced us
to what was going to happen. It was impossible to see where the light changes
were coming from, but gradually, we became aware of how the white altar now
looked blue, or turquoise, or grey. And as the light changed, our brains changed
their perceptions too. Our brain creates colour in response to other colours;
if our eyes are exposed in a particular way to blue, for example, we will see
other things as orange even if they “are not actually” orange. Orange is the
complement to blue as green is to red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And so gradually we became immersed in a pool of light where we also
were actors, creating the colours around us that in turn influence our own
emotions and mood.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxXevq04i_sed0Yr_tL3-ge2nKraFd6KCX6s6SLptV0rimmP5ebJ0fK5IhngXrg8HRS7jkBRlaYJXFRbPV5QILihMkLp8wZ2EiJKaXxfEmwd5MbthZME_jDGEDH8HHls_EN4hvbGah0c/s1600/IMG_1490.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbxXevq04i_sed0Yr_tL3-ge2nKraFd6KCX6s6SLptV0rimmP5ebJ0fK5IhngXrg8HRS7jkBRlaYJXFRbPV5QILihMkLp8wZ2EiJKaXxfEmwd5MbthZME_jDGEDH8HHls_EN4hvbGah0c/s320/IMG_1490.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our guide
asked us, at the artist's request, not to take photos, although it is not forbidden. She didn't say why, but this is my guess. Photographs act by capturing light, pinning it down. And they also try to pin down a moment of time: this is exactly what this looked like when...But the installation questions our perceptions, not only of light but of time; light is what informs our perception of time. The cemetery questions our perception of time too, and the chapel had its own Tardis-like aspect; as the light changed, it
seemed sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller than it had from the outside. This can't be seen on a picture, but something of the beauty of the colours can be felt. Maybe. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Over the next few days, as we visited gardens, lakes and buildings, I wondered
what pictures I was creating in my brain and how one thing I saw was influencing all the others things I was seeing. Like in Milan, where after I'd seen hundreds of Renaissance paintings, I started seeing the people around me as if an artist had grouped them with a profound intent. Their meaning began to shine out differently; time seemed to slow down as I looked at them. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And here
are some pictures after all – not ones I took, but postcards that the cemetery
administration has produced in order for people like me to find a compromise
and tell other people to come and see the installation for themselves. So you see, I can't resist a good picture either. Even though my pictures of pictures are only the tiniest reflection of what the experience was like...<br />
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXwUtx2pwNTuCowFzFP2XRzQIEej1vMqv_RNEb5Aj62mHavIIuU2PmS4k7LZ25w7sQo4R8VYlv83VVLLN4S26wD7acvYkaf-dXsXKgjlW1VN9UIOiovQHb6Mijj0zGcKr6h1cQU7ZceQ/s1600/IMG_1485.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOXwUtx2pwNTuCowFzFP2XRzQIEej1vMqv_RNEb5Aj62mHavIIuU2PmS4k7LZ25w7sQo4R8VYlv83VVLLN4S26wD7acvYkaf-dXsXKgjlW1VN9UIOiovQHb6Mijj0zGcKr6h1cQU7ZceQ/s320/IMG_1485.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC6sD24Uu13E4zms985jUbnlmgHO4lcOWKJ5BBWPTcW3SjGyQ0My3eb8JbBvsO1ZpSk4JSC_FI7qRc3EE11Z3G4Pgjcymy1M6kgnKFVcjVMbCsUwzFsR9UydF8ByC2uxQ3c6mPiJmKt04/s1600/IMG_1487.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC6sD24Uu13E4zms985jUbnlmgHO4lcOWKJ5BBWPTcW3SjGyQ0My3eb8JbBvsO1ZpSk4JSC_FI7qRc3EE11Z3G4Pgjcymy1M6kgnKFVcjVMbCsUwzFsR9UydF8ByC2uxQ3c6mPiJmKt04/s320/IMG_1487.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-16777869411687328562017-06-30T02:10:00.000-07:002017-06-30T02:12:50.428-07:00Beauty in strange places, aka a trip to the Wuhlheide<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVGBzqrJfPB94x6FE7KnxqcU7N9CxxqYFlDRnmVAdRkhA1O8RTxrbpGH63ZcmdmxtlmFHV5Pv2UpWhPQLWZkGYdLmyfYk3jc-hfTlInkgGwV0TJgngMaaaCHEI879AosNs_pJMfST2HS0/s1600/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+930.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVGBzqrJfPB94x6FE7KnxqcU7N9CxxqYFlDRnmVAdRkhA1O8RTxrbpGH63ZcmdmxtlmFHV5Pv2UpWhPQLWZkGYdLmyfYk3jc-hfTlInkgGwV0TJgngMaaaCHEI879AosNs_pJMfST2HS0/s320/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+930.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
It's been hard to write about things that are personal when
all around you things are changing faster than you can keep up with, and the
discourse about what is happening is so involving and intriguing...though also,
of course, boring. But I have to remember, the personal
is still also political. And more importantly local. <i>Very </i>local sometimes...</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
I recently returned from a trip
to Canada and the US; I was alone on a strange continent! Fear and elation tipped in the balance, but I was left with a feeling of thankfulness; a very American feeling, judging from what they so often say (how to understand the emotions of people who talk about their emotions so often?), but also just a human one. </div>
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<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But coming back to Berlin, I was
also thankful. For the freedoms we have here, for the lack of drama, and
surprisingly, most of all for "the green" as the Germans would say.
German is good at that; keeping things simple by turning an adjective, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">grün</i>, into a noun, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">das Grüne</i>. Green spaces, leafy places, trees, grass, lakes...even
parks. It's not always complimentary, though; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Leben
im Grünen</i> is also a commercial phrase designed to attract home-owners and
investors to buy houses out in the sticks, and so it can be used with irony,
even disapproval by those hard-core city-dwellers in Neukölln or Kreuzberg when we tell them where we live. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But it's true. We do live in the
green. Birches and sycamores, now a darker, deeper and dustier green than when
I left their spring-like brilliance four weeks ago, surround our flat; the view
beyond the houses recedes into the green distance of the Berlin Forest with its
canals and rivers, and eventually, out to Wannsee. The plants on our balcony
(sage, honeysuckle, thyme, coriander, mint, box...) have sprung into lush,
bright green life, especially after the storms, floods and sunshine of the past week;
my morning commute by bicycle to the S-Bahn at Schlachtensee takes me through
airy green corridors of beeches, birches, firs and oaks, along green fields
(now yellowing in the heat) grazed by large, composed-looking white cattle and
small, over-excitable white sheep. Before getting the train, I
run down to the water for a quick swim; moving out to the centre of the lake,
the sun on my face, I turn on my back and am surrounded by a circle of bright
green trees and dark green water, the bowl of blue sky overhead mirroring the
bowl of green lake below, both full of life, seen and unseen.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
At my conference in the US, I attended a seminar called "On Beauty". People are pretty consistent about what they find beautiful, and I'm no exception (the sea, the sky, lakes, trees, mountains, the Fernsehturm...). But <i>finding beauty</i> and <i>finding things beautiful</i> are
two different things. Finding beauty is not always easy. Beauty can't be separated
from whether you are able to access it; how lucky you can be, or not, to have it
offered, withheld or simply never seen as even important.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
And this brings me back to
Berlin. In fact, to East Berlin, which is not, one has to admit, a place one
would instantly think of as beautiful. But Berlin offers its citizens beauty (as well as
ugliness) in many forms, and though not all of them sound beautiful to start
with, the fact that nearly anyone can access them makes them beautiful in a
special kind of way.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
As if to prove this, last weekend we found beauty in a particularly strange place. Looking
through our book of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">111 Things Not to
Miss in Berlin</i> (highly recommended), I suddenly noticed something.
"Mel! There's a miniature railway! In the Wuhlheide!" No sooner said
than Googled: "And today they're having – OMG, there's a steam
special." It took a surprisingly short time for us to pack our bags and a
picnic and get on our bikes before catching the self-important, indispensable S7
train line all the way across town to Ostkreuz, where we threw ourselves onto its
unimportant, obscure cousin, the tiny S3 with just two carriages full of
holidaymakers, teenagers with fizzy drinks, disapprovingly tutting elderly
people("Tuh! Irresponsible cyclists!") and small children with
already exhausted parents. It was only midday, but already it felt like an
adventure, as we were carried out of the familiar surroundings of
Friedrichshain and Treptow out east to Rummelsburg, Köpenick and eventually the
"Wuhlheide", the Wuhl Heath. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
I had never stopped here before.
My previous experience of the Wuhlheide had consisted mostly of avoiding it, as
a friend and I cycled, heady with the romance of a Berlin summer, to the
vastness of Müggelsee, on a hot, hot Sunday with nowhere to stop and rest until
we got there. That was seventeen years ago and there was no European Bike Trail
then, just the rushing road and endless cars, lorries and dust. We thought of
the Wuhlheide as a place for East German families to listen to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Schlager</i> while drinking beer and eating
Wurst in improbable quantities; after all, it was called a People's Park, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Volkspark</i> (anything with the prefix "Volks-" is best
avoided in the view of many younger Germans). We imagined it as a naff, yet
also intimidating place full of neonazis and Goths intent on hunting each other
down, with us, helpless intellectuals, caught in the middle, possibly under the
ironic gaze of brightly-coloured plastic <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Volks</i>gnomes. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07Ct9snmIxn_gVosulG4a9osHtqjaB-aXBQvKGKlBvEmt7-x9ZgsfEnDsE0UvVglUfx7jMWmHZoZJPFcapCHyqox23sQ8RYpvVNWvwWbAos-z8knI2_BzdPqizyv4IKM6HncX0eJC3xQ/s1600/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+897.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj07Ct9snmIxn_gVosulG4a9osHtqjaB-aXBQvKGKlBvEmt7-x9ZgsfEnDsE0UvVglUfx7jMWmHZoZJPFcapCHyqox23sQ8RYpvVNWvwWbAos-z8knI2_BzdPqizyv4IKM6HncX0eJC3xQ/s320/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+897.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading into the heath</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But now, seeing it this time, I
was unironically enchanted. No gnomes were visible. Instead, as we arrived at
the platform, stumbling out with our bikes, we suddenly stopped at the sound of
a loud whistle. Then there was the hiss of a steam engine, and there was the
engine itself, a tiny black smoking monster shining in the glare of the midday
sun, with wooden carriages full of people in the back. And to our amazement,
they were both smiling <i>and</i> waving; we've never before seen Germans wave
from public transport, unlike the British, who seem to take any opportunity to
do so. We waved back as enthusiastically as we dared.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Here, however, the similarity to British miniature railways ended. The railway at the
Wuhlheide, which opened in 1956, has a special history. It was a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pioniereisenbahn</i>,
one of many narrow gauge railways in the Eastern Bloc designed for young
railway "pioneers" to prepare for their adult life as proud servants of the people (the <i>Volk</i> - a word which, I suddenly realise, here has an altogether different implication to what I'd assumed). Here, the East German railway company
– the Deutsche Reichsbahn – trained children and young adults as drivers, stokers, ticket
collectors and guards. And if that sounds unlikely, how about this - the Wuhlheide, then known
as the Pionierrepublik Ernst Thälmann, also contained a training centre for
young astronauts.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtga0FIjI5_SxGIb8vAaVlJnQ75YCABO2x9mldTRLljYftCeKZEHZUWfL7sjXIkZr5Nq_29ctuSNdDbc9eIIMQN2OafNvykrGLRPFjbe2dEiAdTKHCJWhjfp3_Yp9ZdFJcLnQuWXczE2c/s1600/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+932.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtga0FIjI5_SxGIb8vAaVlJnQ75YCABO2x9mldTRLljYftCeKZEHZUWfL7sjXIkZr5Nq_29ctuSNdDbc9eIIMQN2OafNvykrGLRPFjbe2dEiAdTKHCJWhjfp3_Yp9ZdFJcLnQuWXczE2c/s320/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+932.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where's the driver? Our train, the <i>Luise</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But although the Parkeisenbahn
(park railway), as it is now known, is still partly run by children and young
people, its ethos and ownership has changed. After the fall of the Wall, as agreements were made, often controversially and painfully, between industries in East and West, the
Reichsbahn no longer wanted to pay for upkeep of the railway. Instead, a
charitable trust was formed; and, realising that nostalgia for steam is not
just a British invention, it had the brilliant idea of using steam engines alongside
the diesel ones that the DR had employed, gifted to the Wuhlheide by
other German miniature railways. Now the locomotives come from as far away as
Indonesia and Poland; the Indonesian engine, <i>Merapi</i>, though built
in 1925 in Hanover, was used on a sugar plantation in Java before
returning to Germany.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vDWpIjfaBOL25ScKPKbgTmTnQe4t1_hnyrtL_6ASQYr3pMNfGfPxqO5rwQzwtute8yMdhRFQEVWbSQsG7kidc0otZJOB2msl7lGrcmhUGvvTkMHOEtuLpIX40eBA6OUO9dSs7Tm0OYI/s1600/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+893.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_vDWpIjfaBOL25ScKPKbgTmTnQe4t1_hnyrtL_6ASQYr3pMNfGfPxqO5rwQzwtute8yMdhRFQEVWbSQsG7kidc0otZJOB2msl7lGrcmhUGvvTkMHOEtuLpIX40eBA6OUO9dSs7Tm0OYI/s320/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+893.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But one part of the DDR ethos
was not lost. The trust held onto the policy of encouraging children to run the
railways – forget Scouting, become a train driver! And we soon saw the results
for ourselves. After a bicycle ride through what seemed like endless
woodland and heath, getting lost as we followed the confusing sounds of the trains, we finally managed to find
the Hauptbahnhof, the main station. And here we saw the railway in its full
glory. Young boys, from the age of about 8 or 9 up, and young men checked our
tickets, manned the signals, and shouted obscure messages up to the train drivers,
who have to be 18 or over. No girls appeared to be involved, although they are
apparently welcome. But a girl sold us our tickets, and for just 6 euros
each, we got to climb on to the wooden carriages, sit in the sun and look out
at the woods and at other enthusiastic passers-by, holding up their small
children to wave – yes, really! – as we travelled the whole 7 kilometres of the
railways. The Chinese man in front of us and laughed with his toddler son.
Trainspotters took pictures. Mums and dads let their children lean dangerously
out of the wooden carriages for a better look at the engine up front. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPRELS6eBkIiFZJITcvSq109O8G2fSjtlglVI88qKoI0vvKkCiON5QSTXhzee4vmK_9UWfUGG3jmYIudEpVotlQUe2Yc1iYN4CGsiZSUa982EaErhQwgioUJ1wZzIIC2iaX3OqjQdFtQ/s1600/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+914.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPRELS6eBkIiFZJITcvSq109O8G2fSjtlglVI88qKoI0vvKkCiON5QSTXhzee4vmK_9UWfUGG3jmYIudEpVotlQUe2Yc1iYN4CGsiZSUa982EaErhQwgioUJ1wZzIIC2iaX3OqjQdFtQ/s320/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+914.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Health and safety...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
"This could never happen in
the UK!" Mel shook her head. "This is amazing. Look at us, just a thin metal chain between us and falling out of the train, and a whole train
journey for just 6 euros. And everyone is so happy! And safe."</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
We later found out it had not
always been so safe; a child abuse scandal spoilt the reputation of the railway
for a while in the 1990s. Thereafter, social workers and teachers were brought
in and the policies sharpened up; recruitment and management was changed. But
the main principle did not change; children are still judged sensible and clever enough
to run railways. And they do.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
We marvelled at the space children
and adults have out here to be themselves and to enjoy things outdoors without
any worry or interference. We marvelled at the huge size of the park, which,
once past the parts designed for entertainment (beer stalls, children's pools,
etc) revealed itself to be as much of a true heath as in East Anglia or Yorkshire, a vast
space where birds and insects can live alongside people. And we marvelled at
how unexpectedly beautiful it was; despite the <i>Schlager </i>at the beer stall, or
perhaps also because of them.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
This spaciousness, the living in the green, is a gift; whatever your politics, whatever your income, you can find it, reach it, and be in it. You do not have to be rich or privileged, or own a car, as in America. This is a beauty that Berlin gives to us all for the price of an S-Bahn ticket, or as we found out on the way back along the Radweg (European R1), for a ferry ticket on Berlin's shortest ferry journey across the Spree; two minutes on the F11 for the price of a Kurzstrecke ticket. Swallows dipped around us and fish swam beneath. Something not just for the whole family, but for the whole <i>Volk </i>- whoever that now is, in Berlin, wherever we are from - to enjoy.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaA6ihxeEol4Vy6vecNgrsaxSd5Vd3UQHJJWxQNYYCZ0v2memwYNNySO-1hGj2DI8JigOEpnU7LIlKMgVQN44V_KK_SMYOnoKUy9OvuOFj7cWBQI9-vGC9hSwqDIpxKXnMxw37CRk1s9w/s1600/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaA6ihxeEol4Vy6vecNgrsaxSd5Vd3UQHJJWxQNYYCZ0v2memwYNNySO-1hGj2DI8JigOEpnU7LIlKMgVQN44V_KK_SMYOnoKUy9OvuOFj7cWBQI9-vGC9hSwqDIpxKXnMxw37CRk1s9w/s320/Emily%2527s+iPhone+June2017+936.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuQ8gBlrUlYM2b184mOQzSBv2m0cWz7DKgOk0136qLZ_qFo1c974F5-ZDDqVN30Bem2iR58IDjDokHvXAiXN1mpEZFSmg8a33lrctEMkqirGqEiJJEdMV4X86OlsE2-7mkDIzcwtrrrc/s1600/IMG_0358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuQ8gBlrUlYM2b184mOQzSBv2m0cWz7DKgOk0136qLZ_qFo1c974F5-ZDDqVN30Bem2iR58IDjDokHvXAiXN1mpEZFSmg8a33lrctEMkqirGqEiJJEdMV4X86OlsE2-7mkDIzcwtrrrc/s320/IMG_0358.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Two weeks ago we woke up and the sun
was shining, a fairly uncommon experience right now. We did our daily checks to see what enormities we
now have to integrate into our world view, and decided that rather than succumb
to depression (the usual result), we should go out, and defy the
misery that is threatening like a oil slick to coat all our good experiences
with the knowledge of bad things happening elsewhere in the world. Our good
experiences are still ours. (An existential question for another day: What
happens to good experiences when the premise they are built on disappears? Shut up, existential questions. I promise you I'll get around
to you soon).</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
It was a beautiful day, with a
hard frost shining bright white from the rooftops, a dazzling sun making it
hard to peer out of the kitchen window, as I did, to check whether the
woodpeckers were still there. They've suddenly all decided the last two days
that it is Time To Find A Tree, and have been squabbling, bickering and
generally flying madly about from one pinnacle to another, hoping to find their
dream home for the coming spring. "Hey, I'm loving this one! It's
so....hollow!" Even a green woodpecker arrived on Friday, but remained
cautiously hidden in the shade, unlike the red and black Greater Spotted ones,
who like to hang out at the very top of lopped branches in the sunshine,
preening and I have to say, showing off to each other like crazy. So we
followed their example – not by climbing trees, but by deciding it was time to
go out in the sun and claim the almost-feels-like-nearly-springtime for
ourselves.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
I'd looked in the guidebooks,
and remembered that we've never yet done the ferry crossing to Kladow, a strangely
neglected peninsula on the other side of Wannsee. It's not a boat trip, but a
bona fide, real BVG (the Berlin TFL) trip that is planned to actually help you
get to real places rather than just as a day out. Commuters can take the ferry,
if so inclined, from Kladow to Wannsee station in the mornings to catch the
S-Bahn into work. There is a more prosaic route via a bus, Spandau and a VERY
long train ride...but if you could get a boat instead, why wouldn't you? And
today was an especially beautiful day for a boat trip. "It's like going
for a walk, but without having to walk anywhere," I persuaded Mel.
Woodpeckers or no woodpeckers, it still feels like minus 15C out there, and the
ground has been frozen for weeks now, so without ice-skates or crampons walking
is not really an option. But anyway, Mel doesn't need much persuading and
within just an hour we're on the S-Bahn and off to get the boat.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqcrLwvty7cKf0bILaBOoWNORsz3_ChHSRfs5KLvichJobb_kTfcY8HBoAtz_PR5c5eNvb8PJr3IHVeirC4576HEzbiBD2HFaVbwXBcQ_J9T1Ad7PVJ1JXzlpkSIFHsxIUnb1bDshbo4/s1600/IMG_0345.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqcrLwvty7cKf0bILaBOoWNORsz3_ChHSRfs5KLvichJobb_kTfcY8HBoAtz_PR5c5eNvb8PJr3IHVeirC4576HEzbiBD2HFaVbwXBcQ_J9T1Ad7PVJ1JXzlpkSIFHsxIUnb1bDshbo4/s320/IMG_0345.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
At Wannsee, we make our way down
to the ferry terminal, and in the distance can already see the boat
approaching, the only boat on the lake today, where usually there are dozens.
It's silent but for a strange rumbling, cracking sound. "I love that
noise!" Mel enthuses. "What is it?" I ask. "It's the ice of
course," Mel replies. "Look!"</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDivUchyIfBJ_90rmxwFxlJNnkytlouYQFjVLv8Ny1Btxf1obVDPnYxJbmgEN98o_8SIfztHjOw5cgizGa7Qjx2T7KpHLaT-JWI5Wbc68unXmf8EGicuUvxshUS3O8HxI9hUXIsA1ePM/s1600/IMG_0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDivUchyIfBJ_90rmxwFxlJNnkytlouYQFjVLv8Ny1Btxf1obVDPnYxJbmgEN98o_8SIfztHjOw5cgizGa7Qjx2T7KpHLaT-JWI5Wbc68unXmf8EGicuUvxshUS3O8HxI9hUXIsA1ePM/s320/IMG_0346.JPG" width="320" /></a>At the edge of the lake,
by our feet, are sheets of ice rolling and sliding over each other. Ducks
scramble up on to them from the places where the ice has thawed, slipping on
the unaccustomed surface and then standing quite still, their reflections as
bright as they are. The lake isn't frozen solid. But it's covered in these ice
sheets, two or three inches thick, sharp as guillotines, reflecting and
refracting the sunlight, and this is what the boat is travelling through, or
across. The sheets of ice bump against each other while the boat's stern shears
across them, and this is what is making this curious, lovely noise. But I have
to concentrate. The crowds are gathering. It's not only us who want to go to
Kladow. And soon the ferry arrives and we make our way on to it. Then the journey
begins.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Iny1Z2X3qqJaT0a0vpYM9ghSLKSvTIShBYexbBTnsSG0uw1gwh_68zruAJt4ojy2QnWqTGuWalZ6PjI7t2Qoco-dR4ACxXmRoYCaqMVOnpyArImv7-Alaz20sXuw0cQBN8FN3YJNOAw/s1600/IMG_0364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Iny1Z2X3qqJaT0a0vpYM9ghSLKSvTIShBYexbBTnsSG0uw1gwh_68zruAJt4ojy2QnWqTGuWalZ6PjI7t2Qoco-dR4ACxXmRoYCaqMVOnpyArImv7-Alaz20sXuw0cQBN8FN3YJNOAw/s320/IMG_0364.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Gulls fly around us. There are
flocks of geese paddling in between the ice, all facing the same way (why do
they do that?). Cormorants swoop across the bows. A buzzard flaps by. It's a
beautiful day and we are out on a boat. Just below us, we can see the ice
breaking up as we pass through it, and the crackling, splittering noise gets
louder, the only noise in the utter silence that surrounds us. It's almost like
the boat is sliding <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">across</i> the ice
rather than through the water. Ravens and crows march around the glittering field
that the lake has become, looking for food, or enjoying the sun. We feel very
small, alone in the middle of this huge frozen world.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But some things here look
surprisingly big, out of proportion in this new landscape. What on earth is
that for example sitting over on the lake? Hunched over, like little old men
squatting on the ice, with what now look like miniature ravens, gulls and
crows pecking busily around them, they sit on, statuesque, unmovable..."Oh
my God," Mel exclaims, "It's two sea eagles!"</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2YNsfCEDTlL92rMlHkMehF7hxpoZXF0ihGA9DQ8-CFQCpxatsVi6cbTC3PyAs1iyke4A6-EAdTx4M5lSP8-3fzAIC3d5m3uG8xNKtS5bVtk6yzmNLPahtLkRb0HO8fkH3AJ11nw5ogM/s1600/IMG_0371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2YNsfCEDTlL92rMlHkMehF7hxpoZXF0ihGA9DQ8-CFQCpxatsVi6cbTC3PyAs1iyke4A6-EAdTx4M5lSP8-3fzAIC3d5m3uG8xNKtS5bVtk6yzmNLPahtLkRb0HO8fkH3AJ11nw5ogM/s320/IMG_0371.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imchen Island (eagles hidden in trees)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Our beautiful eagles, our Rum
companions, now here in the middle of Berlin? Well, not the actual birds from
Rum of course, but their majestic cousins: the biggest birds, almost the
biggest creatures, you are likely to see out in the wild in this country. We saw one months
ago, gliding far above us in the sunny blue skies of Brandenburg, but these are
just five metres away, probably flown down from the Baltic to look for food....We
get up and run about excitedly with binoculars while I try to tell the three
little boys at the front of the boat what we're seeing. "Look over there!
It's eagles!" The oldest boy pauses from eating his crisps and looks at me
pityingly. "They're not eagles," he replies laconically,
"They're water fowl."</div>
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<br /></div>
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Quenched, I return to my seat,
while the elderly, Chinese lady who is looking after the boys on
their trip struggles in her broken German to explain the situation to them. The
eagles are flapping slowly up into the trees, disturbed after all by our
clattering little boat. I don't think the boys have seen the eagles, and surprisingly,
no-one else seems to have either. What is it about wildlife? Why is it so
fascinating, yet, on the other hand, somehow so difficult to notice if you
don't train yourself to look? Maybe the eagles were just too unexpected to be
seen. Things sometimes are. The older I get, the harder I find it to let myself
be surprised. But on the ferry to Kladow, I was surprised the whole time. A day
of wonder in the middle of days of anxiety. Now it's back to normal. But I am
trying to keep our day of ice and eagles in mind.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-24481689045012052812017-01-07T06:57:00.000-08:002017-05-02T13:23:32.113-07:00It may be doom but it's not all gloom...aka Happy 2017 in Berlin<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_reZtLjmNx01k-QUtsnY02IUqbfRDTX0Fm5kIv-gNb8-7aE2aAcUD54_Fr4CZ1HDrUs6WxY6PaDmd6mq-yAXHzeXfw9pkloYldGFUMDUhA3WXYJJfI-B18vAiZsGdwey17vqkPQXW-c/s1600/IMG_0224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_reZtLjmNx01k-QUtsnY02IUqbfRDTX0Fm5kIv-gNb8-7aE2aAcUD54_Fr4CZ1HDrUs6WxY6PaDmd6mq-yAXHzeXfw9pkloYldGFUMDUhA3WXYJJfI-B18vAiZsGdwey17vqkPQXW-c/s320/IMG_0224.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
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<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinGUVZNfd0LI-oi2czCQyUBYMjUsR6VgAfSnYMH9XGM3E59EBaxvLUfgBNKmGWewLyCI7xrfGpGcZsC73bCiguSGjzaHARndgW-lIbX1X_lAQX1MyISe2BPQ1M10Gl57mKfZ2p8_DXd9s/s1600/P1090242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinGUVZNfd0LI-oi2czCQyUBYMjUsR6VgAfSnYMH9XGM3E59EBaxvLUfgBNKmGWewLyCI7xrfGpGcZsC73bCiguSGjzaHARndgW-lIbX1X_lAQX1MyISe2BPQ1M10Gl57mKfZ2p8_DXd9s/s320/P1090242.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
The last weeks have been dark in
more ways than one. And now it's snowing! The sky is grey, roads are icy, people mutter ominously about how 2016 Was The Worst Year Ever (Unless 2017 Is Worse) and no-one wants to be back at work. But Berlin is never entirely dark. Like most cities, it's obsessed with light, but unlike most cities, this does not take
the form of giant flashing billboards, dizzyingly high tower blocks of a
thousand empty, lit-up rooms, or sodium lamps pouring out a haze of orange dust
to hide the stars. No, instead Berlin goes shamelessly in pursuit of pure bling,
sometimes even dressing it up as art, to dispel the dreariness of its long,
long winter.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2fQ4387W68RId6jGzrZoL0xxqy1kUaKCuW_GEpyb7V0kFQkwbGWBuWmRu6j3Rj55GrO27iX477Uj3vkbSTiQJ5AId0sX9z1C7fhfXe2eGJcv-IovptdEvSrVflAYkyAfvPuviVUCVR8/s1600/P1080906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2fQ4387W68RId6jGzrZoL0xxqy1kUaKCuW_GEpyb7V0kFQkwbGWBuWmRu6j3Rj55GrO27iX477Uj3vkbSTiQJ5AId0sX9z1C7fhfXe2eGJcv-IovptdEvSrVflAYkyAfvPuviVUCVR8/s320/P1080906.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Festival of Lights...not kitsch at all</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Festivals of lights. Christmas lights. The endless fireworks at
New Year. And it's just as well. Berlin winters have a darkness to them
that can be as bleak as the darkness of a Scottish island, and that can feel
just as existentially threatening, for very different reasons. It's a real,
physical darkness too. There's not much light pollution here (except at New Year, when Germans gleefully give up their environmental credentials and release thousands of tonnes of fireworks into the atmosphere). Where we live, it's so dark that we can get off the bus at midnight and
see thousands of stars, bright constellations above us. And unlike
London, Berlin has real borders; it may not have a wall any more,
but beyond the city are still forests, lakes and endless fields, rather than,
say, Surrey.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zvOnU3uofQ0_cIV1gITmdyYHA3JxQEkaWKUEwv6gwPTTX22nQ3FLUTspIuVsyq8Ro4eYyKvp9Fi8frwOV-IO8k0GNbWt1ShInRO3VnXGBC7tGc7AlXvuPWQItEWBpMLCCeT_0g1yhzI/s1600/P1080861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zvOnU3uofQ0_cIV1gITmdyYHA3JxQEkaWKUEwv6gwPTTX22nQ3FLUTspIuVsyq8Ro4eYyKvp9Fi8frwOV-IO8k0GNbWt1ShInRO3VnXGBC7tGc7AlXvuPWQItEWBpMLCCeT_0g1yhzI/s320/P1080861.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boat trip with glühwein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Maybe it's the transition
between the dark and the light that really fascinates us. When I think back to
this winter, I will think most of the nights. Of our night-time Aquarium visit
for example, where by torchlight we toured the echoing, shadowy halls where
fish and sharks and crocodiles live their mysterious lives. Of our wanderings through Berlin during
the Festival of Lights, which most Berliners see as a kitsch effort to bring
more tourists into town, and it is, but I don't care. Of the candles that are
lit in all the bars and cafes as evening falls and the streets are too dark and cold and
damp to stay out any longer. Of the hours and hours and HOURS of fireworks going off at New Year (Mel: "I never knew that fireworks could get boring!"). And of our visit to the Botanic Garden that rounded
off our Christmas holiday. With not only lights but real fires, glühwein and sausages,
it was a good way to see in the New Year....now we just have to get through
January, when all the lights are put away as if we were being told to grow up
and get back to work. Which we are, of course. But let's not think about it for
a while yet. There are still light-up reindeer and light-up bears in the world. Happy New Year!</div>
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<br />islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-85604297010042453692016-12-17T09:14:00.000-08:002017-05-02T13:20:50.121-07:00Dominant, prime, tonic...Advent<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 6"/>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiAZpFGr75euFhlYBkFujBaG9ikFil0SLga390A23szfXxs_4-PkYVDOo0Da0xC3LirLXx1m-bG3PYONnCsvPM9xTNfngOMlo1s8Kd6OYgDYWyg7DNW7-wkTAwfuwMETRZ4iizuGI3Bd8/s1600/P1090115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiAZpFGr75euFhlYBkFujBaG9ikFil0SLga390A23szfXxs_4-PkYVDOo0Da0xC3LirLXx1m-bG3PYONnCsvPM9xTNfngOMlo1s8Kd6OYgDYWyg7DNW7-wkTAwfuwMETRZ4iizuGI3Bd8/s320/P1090115.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
I've never liked the number
five. It's an odd number that looks as if it ought to be even. It is somehow complacent and bumbling, wholesome and healthy. It's the easiest,
least interesting interval to sing (it's even <span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">called</span> the dominant, for goodness' sake, as if it weren't
self-important enough already); the place where you are, briefly, before you
get to the end, the tonic chord. It's half of ten and like all halves has a symmetrical quality while
also lacking something essential. Five is, I suddenly realise, a prime number,
so it ought to be interesting, but I still don't like it. It doesn't have the erratic, intriguing aspect of
seven, or the mystical connotations of nine, which is just the
opposite of five: it's not a prime number but looks as if it ought to be.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Poor number five. It can't help
itself, and all this is really just a roundabout way of saying that I did not
enjoy turning 45 a couple of weeks ago. I didn't enjoy turning 40, either, but
I grew reconciled to it, even started to enjoy it once I got to 41. But
45 is just....meh. As ages go, it has little to say for itself. There are plenty of role models, but there's no really desirable description. I'll have to invent one, perhaps. But I have to admit that despite my principles and my feminism, I'm a little intimidated. Looking at
myself in the mirror, I don't look young any more, but I don't look old either.
I scrutinise my laughter lines and my worry lines with the same doubts that
most women, married or single, mothers or not, gay or straight, have at this age. Am I attractive? Am I
interesting? Do I have anything to offer the world? What does it have to offer
me? Where will I be in five years? Will I ever live anywhere for more than a year at a time? Should I have another cup of tea? None of the answers are looking so great this
year, I think (except for the cup of tea). Maybe in a couple of years, when I finally get to a <i>properly </i>odd number, things will feel different. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Those were my general thoughts, a few weeks ago. But something in me rebelled against worry. Whether I was going to be 45 or 47, it was still my
birthday and I wasn't going to ignore it. I like my birthday, usually, and I decided that this year I wanted to do something special, something pretty, something slightly boring yet also - for me - exciting. Something I wouldn't be able to do in England. An Advent Boat Trip – <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kaffee und Kuchen</i> included – seemed the
perfect cosy solution for a late November birthday. Also, it had an element of 45-ness that I felt to be appropriate. "Enjoy the Havel in
all its wintry glory!" the brochure promised. I pictured myself drifting
through a beautiful snowy landscape in flickering candle-light while munching
on chocolate, and sent out excited invitations, with an alternative offer to
meet at a bar, just in case people didn't want to spend money on boat trips. It
turned out no-one except Mel and I wanted to go on a boat, and I wondered why.
Was it the money? Family commitments? Fear of getting seasick? Fear of - gasp! - <i>leaving Berlin</i>? "Oh,
well," I shrugged. "Their loss."</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Like every year, my birthday this year fell exactly four weeks before Christmas. But this year, it also fell on a Sunday. While in England this would just mean I didn't have to go to work, this year we are in Germany. This year, Sunday 27th November had a meaning all of its own; it was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">der erste Advent</i>, as they call it here ––
the first (Sunday in) Advent. And while this would be true wherever you were in the world, I had forgotten just what it means in Germany. Unlike in the UK, Christmas here doesn't start in September. Everything has a time and a place, and in the German calendar, <i>der erste Advent</i> has an important subtext: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Christmas is nearly here, you numpties – get your act together and go
shopping </i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">now </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">before it's too late! </i>And suddenly, it was all happening. Christmas markets opened. Carol services
took off in a big way. Children ran around crafting lanterns frenetically – oh no,
sorry, that was 12th November, St Martin's Day. But it's not just lanterns - knitting, crocheting, pottery, badge-making, weaving, they all start to make unexpected appearances in the least handknitted of places. (Imagine Superdrug with basket-weaving.) And most importantly, crowds flock to
florist-and-candle shops, which I think may only exist here, to buy those German winter essentials: Advent wreaths and as many candles as you can fit in your bike basket. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
The day before my birthday, on Saturday
morning, we joined everyone else at the market in Zehlendorf, where little tents were full of jolly
people selling local vegetables (huge baskets of glossy, exotic looking
cabbages, kale, brussels sprouts, parsnips and kohlrabis, and even Teltow turnips!),
local meat, bread, cheese and wine. The air was icy and tall Germans in their
woollen coats breathed clouds of steam, laughing and chattering at the onset of
proper winter and more importantly, Christmas. We took the plunge and
launched ourselves into the shop at the end of the street which sold Advent
wreaths, jostled and pushed by crowds buying pungent-smelling greenery and
silver Santas on a stick. Everywhere we went, people wished us "Froher Erster
Advent!" I hadn't realised it was quite such a festive occasion, and it was lovely. But then
my heart sank. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">This</i> was why no-one
else had signed up to come on my birthday boat trip the next day. They were too
busy lighting candles, eating <i>Stollen </i>and decorating their house with holly, or
alternatively, taking advantage of the shops being open on a Sunday for a change.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Or so I thought....</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcYejLvkFzsree8TP-_rC_AIcs-Q-_IX6RcCNuZUIEf0RnjbKBcgubi3exLJ13C-5d_GX0EG0807Fw07uwxNxU8ggrnQYTFKnly3eIDVbM5b6MGRlwGrG_hh4f6jsbrpyvuQNYvN9kJI/s1600/P1090108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcYejLvkFzsree8TP-_rC_AIcs-Q-_IX6RcCNuZUIEf0RnjbKBcgubi3exLJ13C-5d_GX0EG0807Fw07uwxNxU8ggrnQYTFKnly3eIDVbM5b6MGRlwGrG_hh4f6jsbrpyvuQNYvN9kJI/s320/P1090108.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
We arrived in Potsdam the
following day to glorious, frosty sunshine. We had breakfast in a cafe,
wandered round the park at Sanssouci and eventually meandered down to the Lange
Bruecke, where all the boats go from. I collected the tickets. Full of
excitement, I jumped up and down: "That must be our boat there!" And
so it was. But then..."What's that coach doing there?" And more
anxiously, "What's that big lift thing on the coach for?"</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
"I think it's for our
fellow passengers," said Mel, neutrally. We looked at each other. Then we
looked at our fellow passengers. An enormous group of them was gathered by the
boat. They were mostly wearing beige. They were complaining to each other about
various things. The tiniest, oldest ones – at least the women – were wearing
their bright Sunday-best going-out scarves and hats. Several of them were in
wheelchairs. Suddenly, 45 seemed extremely young. "There's a young family over
there," Mel pointed out encouragingly. "They're here with their aged
parents," I pointed out in return. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
"I don't think there's
anyone else our age here on their own," Mel speculated. "Maybe this
is why no-one else wanted to come."</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
That was it. I'd finally done it. I had carried
being boring too far! I was too old to be cool! No-one would ever want to come
to my birthday again! My life was over! I nearly turned back. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBaO4lnXO4iLxF7aQtIpmZzqP1ihRFMGkDglgxgGAYe51SuyFDgb-_vVLBuuTtYrpFlsaR32bCbZBdAIblNaJekYV4eSPkjhyphenhyphenfqcpmM6kGZ0aG-sCEN_RTbz62naohk3V-vuM6shW4jw/s1600/P1090109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBaO4lnXO4iLxF7aQtIpmZzqP1ihRFMGkDglgxgGAYe51SuyFDgb-_vVLBuuTtYrpFlsaR32bCbZBdAIblNaJekYV4eSPkjhyphenhyphenfqcpmM6kGZ0aG-sCEN_RTbz62naohk3V-vuM6shW4jw/s320/P1090109.JPG" width="240" /></a>But it was too late. The doors were opening. The crew was ushering us on to the boat. A huge,
sparkly Christmas tree stood in the centre of the foyer, and tinsel lined the
long, mirrored cabin that was decked out with baubles and plastic holly, each white-clothed
table with its festive napkins, plates of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Stollen</i>
and coffee cups ready to be filled. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Last
Christmas</i> was playing on the tannoy system. Elderly people rushed to get to
the best spots as if they were on the bus. We moved slowly up the cabin. Elderly
men pushed their chairs aggressively outwards, so that we could not get past. Eventually,
we found our table and sat down. We were at the front, but right beside us, an
argument was ensuing. Parents were ordering their middle-aged children to move
so that they could get a better view. "And leave a place for Hilde, she's in
the toilet but she's going to sit with me." The middle-aged children rose
as one and decamped to a separate table. We looked at the elderly people beside
us, all of them absolutely intent on having an excellent time. They smiled at
us in a conspiratorial manner. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaF4WB3hcS_VG70yZebvvMuytsoD7nGWCDtIRGR7_jEnIA_AvOFLQJ8MLCnIfpzS1j_jIV6XuP0B-OgCb_dokCPX93BNYiLedGF8OLdooChdiOVWLQm3GEfTIiMeILmSOPNQoO4-ebTw/s1600/P1090112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKaF4WB3hcS_VG70yZebvvMuytsoD7nGWCDtIRGR7_jEnIA_AvOFLQJ8MLCnIfpzS1j_jIV6XuP0B-OgCb_dokCPX93BNYiLedGF8OLdooChdiOVWLQm3GEfTIiMeILmSOPNQoO4-ebTw/s320/P1090112.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-1-7aJY23PbOelhiVMsbMKbcgPSoS32bj9Hety2aSAiXTu4C62_wSPjkbx_gTWPeowbIid46DbRRnAc_zLf_GGtuqfRsJxhrHnmkI1grhzTBQIgOt7UNEfOPBPzt-x5KqWdKoXufG90/s1600/P1090110.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja-1-7aJY23PbOelhiVMsbMKbcgPSoS32bj9Hety2aSAiXTu4C62_wSPjkbx_gTWPeowbIid46DbRRnAc_zLf_GGtuqfRsJxhrHnmkI1grhzTBQIgOt7UNEfOPBPzt-x5KqWdKoXufG90/s320/P1090110.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And after</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
And we began to laugh.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
"I don't want to go
home," I told Mel. "I'm enjoying myself far too much."</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9S3LwlvGJ9wodv8SXetEhmJfFOe9T5C3OJP_wd4UtQcWYy0Chgga3POB4UT46apeNmO0uaAkrGFJaBRAaazEMXlsYmbjoyzsFHmyN8D806GuoTzDM4GvHKddiS-9Vr2gkDIz6ZvTYbJ4/s1600/P1090155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9S3LwlvGJ9wodv8SXetEhmJfFOe9T5C3OJP_wd4UtQcWYy0Chgga3POB4UT46apeNmO0uaAkrGFJaBRAaazEMXlsYmbjoyzsFHmyN8D806GuoTzDM4GvHKddiS-9Vr2gkDIz6ZvTYbJ4/s320/P1090155.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
So we sat and listened to Wham!,
Slade and German <i>Schlager </i>Christmas hits, while the harassed waiter did the
rounds with his flasks of coffee and the boat moved slowly off down the Havel
River out towards the lakes that surround Potsdam. The sun shone, and the low
windows allowed us to sail right alongside the ducks and swans that accompanied the
boat. People waved from the riverbank. Soon the coffee was exhausted, as was
the waiter, and our fellow passengers abandoned their cake and began to order
wine. We gazed out at the landscape, which really was wintry and beautiful. We
ate all our cake. As the sun sank lower in the sky, we came into the Wannsee,
out towards Sacrow, and I ran upstairs to go out on the deck. To my surprise, I
found myself completely alone. The freezing air chilled my skin, but the sun
warmed it. I stood absolutely alone on the deck of a ship, in the middle of the
vast expanse of water that is Wannsee, and looked up to the blue sky where
flocks of birds were passing over. The woods to either side were bright in the setting
sun. Suddenly I didn't mind being 45. Suddenly I didn't care about my age at
all. I didn't want to be anywhere but exactly where I was.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
And really, I still don't.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTptSoElRa-R3KqV3NPRfm9PIQCL4CN3gZ9YyYgtvUVWqQiKWALdK0eglL1Q8Sj6wRmRf-WbPy9eJbkPAsnXPOHvXYyowT51OJ1GrbmRvIomRG4V-An2XQwwVIwJLEy8BUQQU8GvNGwa0/s1600/P1090113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTptSoElRa-R3KqV3NPRfm9PIQCL4CN3gZ9YyYgtvUVWqQiKWALdK0eglL1Q8Sj6wRmRf-WbPy9eJbkPAsnXPOHvXYyowT51OJ1GrbmRvIomRG4V-An2XQwwVIwJLEy8BUQQU8GvNGwa0/s320/P1090113.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHlpTubAkLNECi2bpjEGQ3DqLG_HaQzGMpFxcZUkHAFeGf-fEm0x_BOSL8cKCvEzxxqE63QEJQgxwS67YH4n31rf_DmB_gYyGt5rDkqntS8tS_32C0JVd7khJ2cCbMkTi2mCJfTPyomUs/s1600/P1090129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHlpTubAkLNECi2bpjEGQ3DqLG_HaQzGMpFxcZUkHAFeGf-fEm0x_BOSL8cKCvEzxxqE63QEJQgxwS67YH4n31rf_DmB_gYyGt5rDkqntS8tS_32C0JVd7khJ2cCbMkTi2mCJfTPyomUs/s320/P1090129.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacrow Church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VIGLzYE3xzChphr5rU6O-see_yg4WJTlmzgWUtz3Lcq378nAtWnS9dyJPM4yP-8QFcKrVOx4nKhUwGvnOwZZteH4jc5VF9eKdxpvZi2L51SYUVGvkK4RccrTJcHxQWHworY7rKDnUjk/s1600/P1090132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VIGLzYE3xzChphr5rU6O-see_yg4WJTlmzgWUtz3Lcq378nAtWnS9dyJPM4yP-8QFcKrVOx4nKhUwGvnOwZZteH4jc5VF9eKdxpvZi2L51SYUVGvkK4RccrTJcHxQWHworY7rKDnUjk/s320/P1090132.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-26114547251978795092016-12-06T13:02:00.001-08:002016-12-06T13:02:23.091-08:00...and wine with the Polish Ambassador<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8sVaTqaCK9gT2YN5MaPNv0k7iKhKX1L0jpOYeVTLOhF80e_WKtxzWrsTVFSc11AwXs7iwurqWQ3tz6sF-67AtIE0SguI4VBRxuqxbHhPYA9Fz211hxYD9I4ewRCM6lWlp4vrb4cDBk8/s1600/P1090174.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8sVaTqaCK9gT2YN5MaPNv0k7iKhKX1L0jpOYeVTLOhF80e_WKtxzWrsTVFSc11AwXs7iwurqWQ3tz6sF-67AtIE0SguI4VBRxuqxbHhPYA9Fz211hxYD9I4ewRCM6lWlp4vrb4cDBk8/s320/P1090174.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter's coming..oh no, it's here already...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It has been hard to write over
the past few weeks. Most people will have noticed a general shift in the world
as of 8 November, and the elections in America have led to strange times here in Berlin too. The beginning of winter has something to do with it (I haven't yet worked out whether Berliners actually do undergo a personality change when the temperature drops beneath about 5 degrees Celsius, or whether they just take a bloody-minded delight in the fact that they have an EXCUSE to be miserable) but the news from the US was met with a different kind of paralysis, as people found themselves unable to find a way of thinking about what is happening, or might happen, or has happened. Obama visited a couple of weeks back (memorable chiefly for the entire city centre being shut off, helicopters over our house day
and night, and a strange picture of the President drinking coffee from a
polystyrene cup on his own at the Brandenburger Tor). The visit was the
occasion of melancholy. The Berliners, thanks to their history, set great store by American Presidents ("Mr Gorbachev, tear down this wall!" "Ich bin ein Berliner", etc). But the absurdity of the new incumbent defeats even Berliner rationalism. Instead, they were having to say goodbye to someone who, despite drone attacks
and the general military "business as usual" of the US, still seemed
to stand for a kind of uncertainty, even relativism that characterises our
democracies. And in view of the absolutism that Trump supporters seek – the deathly
certainty that characterises all kinds of extremism – I find myself almost longing for a return to the uncertainty and moral struggles that most politicians
bring to their role. It brings a new edge to the Chinese saying, "May you
live in unexciting times". Boring! That's what we want things to be, or at
least when the alternative is violence, hatred and racism. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
So while on the one hand, I have been preoccupied by this whole question of what a nation is and the even more vexed question of identity (a word that I think is pretty much empty of meaning), I have also continued in my pursuit of those boring things that make life worthwhile. Such as, at the moment: twinkly Christmas
markets, a sunset boat trip with octogenarians, visiting the Authorities in Zehlendorf, eating marzipan and drinking coffee, and,
on a slightly less ordinary note, drinking wine with the Polish
Ambassador. Which, now I come to think of it, is not entirely irrelevant to the political
situation.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSto1JI8_Jy_DdIyWrv6TXdwDBip8gHRde9jwRw0xB8TwVq6BW0L3TqLVBg04ZVNCrqcytbujCVufNoGFXd9OVohaUY9JIwVW92GUex81dVn1o7HeeD8FF7Yil79AM2ew97P6VNJe-qeI/s1600/Konzertsaal+rbb.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSto1JI8_Jy_DdIyWrv6TXdwDBip8gHRde9jwRw0xB8TwVq6BW0L3TqLVBg04ZVNCrqcytbujCVufNoGFXd9OVohaUY9JIwVW92GUex81dVn1o7HeeD8FF7Yil79AM2ew97P6VNJe-qeI/s400/Konzertsaal+rbb.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for ambassadors</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Three weeks ago – the day after
the US election results, in fact – I sang in a concert given for Polish Independence
Day, the anniversary of Poland's founding as an independent nation after the First
World War. Why? Well, I wasn't really sure. I had been drafted in as an extra
to sing in the neuer chor berlin (ncb, New Choir of Berlin), and I was so grateful to be singing at all, that I hadn't asked why we were singing a mass in language none of us understood for reasons nobody mentioned. In the
slightly hazy state that I have been in since arriving here in August, I
assumed it was just an ordinary concert and we just happened to be singing a
Polish mass by a modern composer. But I began to wonder at the last-but-one
rehearsal, when we were joined at the church by a very young orchestra of
Polish men and women, conducted by a famous Polish conductor, in the presence of
a suave, fluent, grey-haired gentleman whose function appeared to be (a) to
tell us how nice we were to invite them over, and (b) to tell us when to sit down, when to stand up, when to clap, how to sit and generally, how not to disgrace ourselves in an ambassadorial context. His immense politeness, air of distinction and excellent German awed
us, and we instantly obeyed. But I still didn't know why we were there at all.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
We were in a different world, somewhere between German, English, Latin and Polish. We had
spent hours practising the pronunciation of the Polish parts of the mass, and
despite the practising, still didn't know what all of the words meant. In fact
I hardly knew what any of them meant. But once the orchestra tuned up, started to play, and our words fell into place with the music, I also, to my surprise, fell in love with these words that I didn't understand. I didn't care why we were there. It didn't seem to matter. The deep smoky voice of the alto who was
singing the Psalm convinced me I did understand it, somehow; or that at least I
could be enchanted by it without understanding it. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
In a world of Donald Trumps and Nigel Farages, it's
easy to forget that what is foreign and strange can be completely enchanting. Maybe strangeness is even a condition of enchantment. I can still visit Poland, but I can't visit the Middle East any more; I can't visit Iraq and Syria, that I fell in
love with via Agatha Christie novels. (Agatha Christie
travelled to them by train, almost as easily as getting the Eurostar to Paris, worked there for years with her archaeologist husband, became enchanted by the East.)
Our opportunity to be enchanted by what we know nothing about is being
gradually closed down, it seems, and if we aren't enchanted, how will we learn to understand?</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
My enchantment with the strange
Polish words and the history they referred to may have been the reason why the day of the concert
itself turned out to be a kind of magical adventure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Even Berlin looked different. </span>On the day, I
emerged, still sleepy, from the U Bahn at Theodor-Heuss-Platz and found myself
at the edge of an enormous unfamiliar roundabout in bright winter sunlight.
Cars and lorries rushed around the central island, while people placidly did
their Saturday shopping on the streets around it. The buildings, the
roundabout, the blue sky all looked huge. It was an entirely different part of
Berlin – Masurenallee, the end of Kantstrasse, a long, long boulevard that starts, or
finishes, with the high-end shops and leisurely, wealthy shoppers around
Bahnhof Zoo, passes through Berlin's Chinatown and on past the peeling paint of
the student cafes, the Kant Kino and increasingly seedy shops that line the
road near Wilmersdorfer Strasse, right out to the place where Berlin starts to
meet the outside world – to the city ring road that passes Tegel Airport, to
the massive, white granite Trade Fair Centre Berlin, the Radio Tower, and my
destination, the Haus des Rundfunks – Berlin's first, and grandest, radio studio. </div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">outside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOxiog-cMpaTh13vdXR8TYjhXqLBY-iKiu818tUwpeAXvYDjNtqvrPF18epZzScoBNJlsySRLv_b8brm8rFDrcTVoxMWEZ0miMskzuHP5ygFB4W2NS7qklLgQhdWdx8K1O3rLYfPeLbvE/s1600/haus-des-rundfunks+spreephoto.de.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOxiog-cMpaTh13vdXR8TYjhXqLBY-iKiu818tUwpeAXvYDjNtqvrPF18epZzScoBNJlsySRLv_b8brm8rFDrcTVoxMWEZ0miMskzuHP5ygFB4W2NS7qklLgQhdWdx8K1O3rLYfPeLbvE/s320/haus-des-rundfunks+spreephoto.de.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Haus des Rundfunks has acquired
satellites and extensions since it was completed in 1931, of course, and huge modern buildings
surround it. But the Haus itself is the flamboyant frontispiece, standing with its pure proportions and Art Deco
splendour right on the edge of the Allee, its length glittering down the long curve of the street into the distance. The inside is even more impressive.
Once in the foyer, you look up past gallery upon gallery up to the ceiling
where skylights let in a yellow Art Deco kind of light and a bronze sculpture
twists and points up to an ambitious future. The Polish conductor was on his
mobile in the middle of the foyer. I hurried down mirror-lined hallways to the
basement room where we were assembling. Then we followed our grey-haired Polish
manager up to the concert room, where a young boy was assembling flags: the
Polish flag, the German flag and the EU flag. He was having some trouble getting
them the right way around.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
The soloists, some cheery, some
sober and glamourous, took their places for the dress rehearsal. One of the
sections was done like a pop song, with bongos in the background, and an
incredible key change towards the end. The bass, who had left the stage after
his solo, began to dance behind the conductor's back, like John Travolta, and
we all had to stifle giggles. All too soon, though, the rehearsal was at an
end. We returned to the room below, hanging about, practising our breathing,
eating satsumas and drinking tea, while watching the Polish orchestra polish
off a huge meal of dumplings and chicken. Then, finally, as we were all
starting to fall asleep, it was six o'clock. Time to go upstairs.
"Remember," our manager admonished, "Stay in exactly the same
lines as you did before. Stand up when the conductor comes in. Sit down when
the conductor gives the sign. There will be a Polish reading. Do not stand up
before it is over. Watch the conductor..." The usual first-night nerves
spread through us all, as we stood in the corridor, waiting for our cue to go
in.</div>
<br />Although it
was gone six, people were still mingling in the foyer, arriving in state to be
greeted officially by the Polish Ambassador. Men in stiff white collars and
elegant suits, accompanied by their wives (not, apparently, the other way
around) queued outside the concert hall, awaiting their turn. Then, some of the
wives decided they were going to go to the toilet one final time. We watched
spellbound. Diplomatic restraint was one thing. This was a whole other kind of communication. This was a
bold, brash statement of importance, a signal that these women were to be
noticed. A woman in blue kitten heels, a blue, tight-fitting little dress and a
tiny blue hat swayed past, casting her eyes up coquettishly at the men as she
did so. Another woman in gold thigh-high boots with four-inch heels, a
skin-tight beige dress that reached to just under her knickers and an enormous
gold and white hat above a gold-powdered face, stood eyeing us from beyond her
husband's shoulder. A very small woman with feathers in her hat, high heels,
bright gold hair and quantities of blue eyeshadow marched efficiently past to
the loos. But now it was nearly half-past six and we could not concentrate on these wonders. We were nearly half an hour
late, and like all musicians, we just wanted to start singing. <br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Finally the nod came. We filed
in, in silence and sat down to applause. Then the orchestra, the conductor and the soloists, along with
a middle-aged lady in a green dress. We stood, sat, stood, sat again, waited,
keyed up, on edge. But instead of the conductor, another man walked up to the
podium. The Polish Ambassador was going to give a speech. My stomach knotted. I
was nervous already. What if I fell asleep? What if I had a panic attack? The
speech seemed to go on for ever, in Polish, then in German. Most of it, I couldn't
understand, due to the acoustics of the hall. But some parts of it did stand
out. He was talking about nationalism. What made the Polish nation great. Unity,
independence, bravery, solidarnosc. So far, so good. But then...family,
religion, identity...and I began to feel worried.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
Why celebrate nationhood? Can it
be done at all? In recent years, the Polish National Day that we were about to
celebrate has been marked by right-wing violence, homophobia, hatred of
foreigners. The word "nation" or even the concept of it seems to act
like a kind of catalyst for anger and hatred, not just in the past (the comfortably distant 1930s, for example), but right now, in 2016. Ironically, in the hall we were standing in, the 1930s were not so distant. The Haus des Rundfunks was taken over by the Nazis after 1933 - radio was a key part of their propaganda. Its beautiful Weimar Republic lines and internationalism of design were distorted by the most extreme form of nationalism. Yet in Poland, nationalism is something usually seen as opposite to this - as having survived after the country itself was nearly crushed so many times by invaders. Does this make their nationalism better?</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
I thought about my part-German
family with their dislike of Polish immigrants. The place we come from – the
place my grandfather came from – is now Poland. And the conductor, the members
of the orchestra, the composer, all bore more than a passing resemblance
to members of my family. I recognised myself in them, at least physically, and suddenly the language did not seem as foreign. What if, I speculated, we are not only part-German,
but actually part-Polish? What would that say about my family? What would that
say about what it means to be British? And anyway, where is the
music? What have these words about Nationhood got to do with it?</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
But the music, of course, was the key. Like all good music, it's a contradiction and an answer at the same time. The words are partly a celebration of Poland. The last chorus commemorates the
first Christian baptism of a Polish king 1050 years ago, in 966 AD, and refers to the King who is crowned by divine right. God Himself places the crown on
his head. The drama of the music tells of the amazement of this act. But the music also tells a different story. The words may be taken from a Polish national poet who died in the sixteenth century, but the music is of now, the 21st century, and the mixture of styles, of jazz and pop, Romantic and Baroque, its disconcerting way with tonality, the gentleness of the Kyrie placed against the triumphalism of the finale, is a reminder that life is very much more complicated, mixed up and exciting, than any nationalism has room for. The psalm that lies at the heart of the Mass (Psalm 104) reads in English, "How manifold are your works, O Lord. The earth is full of
your creatures; if you take away their breath, they perish and return to their
dust."</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
The Earth and its creatures. Dealing with them requires something other than nationalism. It requires humility and enchantment. Two things that are in short supply right now. But the beauty of the music went some way to provide them, just a little. And perhaps the excitement and pleasure of the people drinking wine at the post-concert reception - an international, chaotic, buzzing crowd of diplomats, their wives, their wives' hats, musicians, children and guests - just goes to show that nationalism is only the tiniest part of any story. We hope.</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
http://www.clicmusique.com/gabriel-kaczmarek-msza-1050-tarasiuk-andrzejewska-raczkiewicz-bieganski-chau-p-97370.html<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBKb0JuN-5pQKuGCMf3dcXeVt-PN3Z4UOBuQaF2iq8WNHOAg9VKh2zPmsEGZZtVtaazAsU75vYOvc97Ntmbirgyv244vxvoxhihc-HbVfUeqFQWsllT1ArXak-1ValMoke7vmk8A7Q4P4/s1600/staircase+HdR+design-is-fine+org.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBKb0JuN-5pQKuGCMf3dcXeVt-PN3Z4UOBuQaF2iq8WNHOAg9VKh2zPmsEGZZtVtaazAsU75vYOvc97Ntmbirgyv244vxvoxhihc-HbVfUeqFQWsllT1ArXak-1ValMoke7vmk8A7Q4P4/s320/staircase+HdR+design-is-fine+org.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stairwell, Haus des Rundfunks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<![endif]-->islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-4880742809253692152016-11-18T04:41:00.001-08:002016-11-18T04:41:57.777-08:00Tea with the Allies<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcbtyUT4xJ2AlqnDv61S9O1MGTZGdErL6a4NLEeCcVqgdhAQn7EW_BpdM3NiD-f-9T03ghAvw2mg1vIXnyVWFcFb4KQpXr3OE6ZsZpcuzPsaSxAM_e1tQ5mYbFvPrtfHaxSk5bj4xDcOI/s1600/P1080843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcbtyUT4xJ2AlqnDv61S9O1MGTZGdErL6a4NLEeCcVqgdhAQn7EW_BpdM3NiD-f-9T03ghAvw2mg1vIXnyVWFcFb4KQpXr3OE6ZsZpcuzPsaSxAM_e1tQ5mYbFvPrtfHaxSk5bj4xDcOI/s320/P1080843.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A lot of our
adventures in Berlin are of a culinary nature. That´s not really surprising,
given that (a) we love food and (b) the whole point of being in Berlin is often
to be able to sit in cafes/bars/restaurants not doing much at all apart from
eating and drinking and watching the world go by. But there are more important
reasons, too.</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Food is
notoriously associated with homesickness on the one hand, adventure on the
other. Our sense of our lives is closely bound up with how and what we eat. During
my first years in Berlin, I refused to believe that I ever got homesick, or
ever could. But my enjoyment of German food has always had a slight
undercurrent of anxiety. For one thing, I was completely unable to cook it
properly. (I still struggle when cooking here, even if the dishes are, to an
outsider, exactly the same as in England. Cheesecake eludes me; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Spiegeleier</i>, fried eggs, a staple of
German snack food, mysteriously break up in the pan; I am unable to peel a
cooked potato or slice cheese correctly...) But more importantly, back then I had no cultural
understanding of what German food meant. My first meal - breakfast, after a
cold and anxious arrival at Wannsee train station at 8 in the morning - will
forever remain in my memory. Andrea, the mother of the children I had come to look after, had prepared a pot of tea, which was even in
an English tea-pot. But to my bemusement, this was accompanied by cake. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Cake for breakfast</i>? At the time, I had
no idea that Germans eat cake for breakfast on special occasions. I was only
twenty, I was cold and hungry, and the idea of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cake,</i> when I had just made a twelve-hour train journey at night, in
winter, across a thousand miles of forest, was, to my mind, tinged with
mockery. My heart sank. I probably looked suspicious. I may even have frowned. It
was only later I realised the honour Andrea was doing me. </span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">My longing for tea
and toast, however, never really faded and was never satisfied. Tea in Germany
never tastes like tea in Britain – this is not just prejudice, it's a true fact
(Andrea also told me about her visit to a FairTrade tea plantation in Sri
Lanka, where the proud owner told her all about how tea is blended for
different markets.) German tea tastes...more floral, more…<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">weird</i>. But its cultural significance is different too. Tea is made
in a pot (good) but preferably an expensive glass one (strange) through which
one can observe the color of the beverage gently changing into a magical, amber
substance (amber?! What about British orange?). Milk is almost unheard of as
an accompaniment, although in Berlin, this is changing. Bags are sniffed at
(and with good reason here), as they would denote a cheap, working-class drink; the true tea drinker is a ceremonialist, the leaves are
all-important.</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I agree that tea
should be a ceremony. But not <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">that</i>
kind of ceremony! I want a nice china pot of hot, strong tea. Leaves are good,
but not those big, floaty leaves that look more like flowers unfolding and
taste like it too. Dust! Tea dust! That´s what Made Britain Great (Again) – the
remnants of Empire in a small paper bag. And although I later delightedly went
on to explore the strange, rich world of German food (pickled pumpkin, cheese,
rye bread, cakes with cream, egg nog on ice-cream, any amount of coffee…),
there was one part of me that most definitely resisted. Not for any colonial or
political reasons. Just because, although most of me wished I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i> German, the tea-drinking part
definitely didn't.</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">One of the
children´s regular questions, repeated on a near-weekly basis (I seem to
remember it got up to daily levels at one stage), was "What´s your
favourite meal?" The two older ones would approach me in tandem, usually
when I was sat alone with my comforting tea-cup ("Why do you always hold
it with both hands?"), and stand for a while gazing at this ritual,
entranced. Then, eventually, they would take a deep breath and one of them
would put the vital question to me. A pause, while I considered. The considering
part was very important. They needed to see that I was really thinking about
it. And in fact, I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i>. Nonetheless,
my answer was always the same. "Tea," I would say, eventually. "And
bread and butter. Or toast."</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">They would look at
each other and screw their eyes up in delight. Then to me, "Are you <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sure</i>? What about…spaghetti?" "Nope,"
I would reply. "What about…Pommes?" (pommes frites, chips). "Absolutely
not." "What about…" Their imaginations failed them. Then, to
their mother, "Mama! Emily mag nur Tee und Brot!" (Emily only likes
tea and bread!). The Mary Poppins association, from then on, was inevitable.</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So on one day, when there are clouds rolling across Berlin, the sky is darkening and
the sun sets early, I decide I have waited long enough. In 24 years, it has
never "just happened". I have to actively seek out this favourite
meal, ideally to be accompanied by an open fire. And to my immense surprise, a
search on the internet for "teehaus mit kamin" results in a list of
which the second item is "Teehaus im Englischen Garten". This sounds
promising, no, amazing! Apparently, there is a British tea-shop in Berlin that
I have never heard of, and what´s more it has been there since, the 1960s! How
is this possible? Surely it will just serve German things dressed up in English
kitsch. "House of Windsor" jams or something. </span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I am wrong. A
glance at the menu reveals that the English tea-house actually <i>sells English
food</i>. Including clotted cream, scones and fish and chips. And tea. "Mel!
Mel!" We stare, as entranced as the children, at this picture of home. </span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(c) Michael Zoll</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A few days later,
we enter the world of the English Teahouse. From the outside, it is small,
thatched, hidden away in the green depths of Tiergarten, near the Academy of Arts
and the 1960s, retro Hansa Quarter with its orange and blue tiled houses and
wooden balconies. Rain drips from the trees as we push open the door. Will there
be doilies? Or china cats? No. Berlin is always good for a surprise, and the
tea-house is no exception. Like a Tardis, it stretches back, immense, into dim
dark depths, while on the walls, orange and purple lighting repeats the 1960s
theme and plain dark tables with candles group around a bright burning fire. Chandeliers
glitter, while hungover waiters drift between the chattering visitors with
trays of scones, pots of tea and the occasional glass of wine. Their undeservedly
superior expressions melt into indulgent smiles when I ask for more milk with our tea.
They can tell how excited we are. And when the High Tea arrives with its cake
stands and crustless sandwiches, we forget about the waiters – we are too
excited by scones. Real scones. Better, far better than mine and even better than
most of the ones we've had in England. Modernism, tea and scones, an open fire and
chandeliers – who could wish for more?</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgma96TuLWq5O1yI_dfDmyDOjZZ_ofkt9lrYjpwCCrGwNNh8i5qoO8La8ZTM9LE3mIiA6qYQMlFL4M1FkRxIk0Q7K11r0c4ApQVVw234VfGpD9ToqaQPM7Vpc4t8j8vvvsClo3lSjngFRU/s1600/P1080844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgma96TuLWq5O1yI_dfDmyDOjZZ_ofkt9lrYjpwCCrGwNNh8i5qoO8La8ZTM9LE3mIiA6qYQMlFL4M1FkRxIk0Q7K11r0c4ApQVVw234VfGpD9ToqaQPM7Vpc4t8j8vvvsClo3lSjngFRU/s320/P1080844.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I feel a sense of my two lives coming together; not just because of the food,
but because someone else, too – in this case the occupying British forces –
deemed it a Good Thing to bring a little bit of England to Berlin. But not by
pretending Berlin is something other than it is. Instead, a strange but
enchanting mix of Berlin cool and British comfort allows us to sit for a moment
and feel happy. You can keep your Brexit, your Great Britain and your
"identity". It's not identity that matters. It's the happiness when
you can put two wonderful, totally different things together and still enjoy
it.</span></div>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="Text" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-418552401809216302016-11-13T09:00:00.002-08:002016-11-13T09:02:23.266-08:00...what does being boring actually mean?<span style="font-size: small;">Apart from being a song by the Pet Shop Boys, of course.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">I was bored a few weekends
ago, and it's the kind of boredom I wouldn't wish on anyone: mind-numbing, eat-your-own-arm
kind of boredom, as I heard a man repeatedly telling us how many contracts he'd
been offered for how much money over the past few years. It was a mistaken
attempt to get us interested in entrepreneurship, sadly undermined by his
off-hand remark that of course, he'd put far more work into a presentation at a
conference for which he was being paid a thousand Euros than for a teaching
seminar at an adult education class where he was only getting paid two
hundred. It's a shame it was our education class he was talking about...</span></span><br />
<br />
<div style="line-height: 115%;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span><span style="line-height: 115%;"></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Anyway, it made me think that for him, no doubt the
conference and the thousand Euros represented excitement, success, something he
had achieved. But do all those things have to be synonymous? How about failure?
How about everyday life, things that happen by accident, things that ordinary
people like to do? How about being boring? </span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">In Berlin, it's easy to feel you are on a
merry-go-round of events, ideas, debates and tasks that you can never get off. Lucky,
unlucky to be part of it? Lucky, of course. But what's at the centre of that
merry-go-round? Is it a centrifugal or a centripetal force, does it push us
away from the centre or draw us in? Or do we just get so dizzy, we fall off?</span></span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq342ZKGRJn8x9h5ANLTJTmCD2FLbi53CgGh3AJ66oxtn9p-cZlavyunwme8TFQD0Dw8Wxos-5kULrSPufpm0DN63IX23cJipOfad7S6FKscOlhF7zjDCi9-TvkQOJgsdM0rw2gth1WLA/s1600/P1080986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq342ZKGRJn8x9h5ANLTJTmCD2FLbi53CgGh3AJ66oxtn9p-cZlavyunwme8TFQD0Dw8Wxos-5kULrSPufpm0DN63IX23cJipOfad7S6FKscOlhF7zjDCi9-TvkQOJgsdM0rw2gth1WLA/s320/P1080986.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kleinmachnow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Here at the edge of the city, the weather has changed. Suddenly we've been waking up to blue skies and heavy
frosts like snow glittering on roofs and hedges. The first evening of winter, I
took the cat out across crisp, crunching leaves that to my astonishment were
turning white with frost already at seven o'clock. I stared up at the stars
which were clear and bright in the already dark sky, while the cat delicately
and disgustedly lifted her paws high to avoid as much of the cold ground as
possible and then raced home as if being chased by White Walkers (That was pretty much the last evening walk we did.)</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">There's so much to write about - English tea-shops, strange translation workshops, a visit to the Berlin Authorities and German bagpipers in a cemetery - but this morning, struggling
with the stress of going out to work, dealing with home admin, and wanting
to write as well, I didn't even try. Instead,
I opened the kitchen window wide and leant out into the freezing air to breathe
in the frost. No-one else was up. It was silent, except for birds twittering
and rustling through the otherwise still trees. A woodpecker was darting up the
beech, which still retains a few golden leaves, and I watched it for a while.
Its feathers were puffed up and it seemed driven, perhaps by the cold, to run
up as many branches of as many trees as possible, never settling. By contrast,
I was doing nothing at all, not to any outward eye. I wondered if this is what
I mean by saying it is good to be boring. </span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Recently, an article in <i>Zitty</i>
(the more left-wing of Berlin's two regular listings magazines) decided to
tackle the subject of FOMO head-on. The writer, a young journalist, took on the
challenge of doing something every day and night, not saying no to any event
that might be offered to her. The joke, of course, is obvious to any Berliner.
Even with events filling her entire day and half the night (or the other way
around), she would never be able to do even 1 per cent of all those things she
might be aFraid she was Missing Out on. </span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">But does this really make life more exciting? Or, to put it
another way, does the quantity of "things happening" equate to a life
less ordinary? Or, in fact, a life that is <i>better</i>?</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">The honest answer is, in some ways, yes it does. The sheer
volume of Things Happening, people <i>making</i>
things happen, is in some ways infectious and amazing. The fact that people
care enough to make things happen is liberating. The fact that people are
humble and excited enough to learn new stuff, do new stuff, is joyful. </span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">But there's another side to it as well. And I've thought about
this a lot, because some people probably think I'm just being smug and
irritating saying that it's good to be boring. So I need to have my answer
ready. <i>It's not good if you're stuck in a small town where even learning a
foreign language makes you a crime suspect!</i> I imagine them saying. <i>Or
there's no cinema or theatre! Or art! Or dance classes! Or...anything! </i></span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">That's true. I <i>know</i>
those small towns, I <i>was </i>that suspect (well, in my head anyway). But I never said it was good to be bored (that's a whole other blog). Being boring is not the same as being bored. </span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Being boring can mean a lot of things. Obviously, it can mean that you make other people want to bite their own arms off, which is not a good thing. But it can also mean simply that you turn away from Things Happening, in the usual sense of "Things Happening That People Are Doing". Or "Noisy Things". Or "New
Things". Other things are happening, too. They're just not always new
things. Or loud things. Or, most importantly, human things.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">Alone at a window, with no other humans nearby or awake, not
even the sound of other humans to remind me of what I am, I am enthralled by
existence. Birds fly here every day. For all I know, their routines are so
regular that they fly to the exact same tree at the exact same time every day.
The sun comes up over there, beyond that house, every day, not at the same
time, but pretty much in the same way, although today is particularly
beautiful. The wild boar are out every night, in pretty much the same patch
(you can tell). Are their lives boring? I would hazard a guess that they're
not. Not just because the fight for existence doesn't leave time to think about
boredom, although that's probably true as well. Animals in zoos do get bored.
The cat gets bored, now and again, though I'm sure she doesn't think of herself
as boring.</span></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The thing is, I'm not an animal or
a bird or a tree. I can't stop measuring time or live entirely in the moment,
or not for long. I can't <i>really</i>
imagine what it's like to be that way, to be entirely and totally connected to
the earth around you and your own body upon that earth, because I'm a human.
But I can imagine it a little bit. I know what it is like, just a little bit,
to be somewhere, in a time and place, where the present totally and entirely
demands your attention, where you begin to <i>be</i>
present, all the time. It wasn't boring. It was something quite different from
either boring or exciting. And it's no coincidence that this was a place, an
island, where there were more animals and birds than people and not enough
electricity to run a coffee machine. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">There's a tension here I can't
ignore; I love new things, new people, new places, new ideas in particular. But
I also love everyday life. The older I get, the less I want to consume culture
in an attempt to gain excitement, or to look for a way out of boredom, and the
more I'm interested in those other things. Things I haven't been looking for. Things that happen on the edge of a city, rather than in the centre.
Things that happen outdoors: falling conkers, buzzards wheeling overhead, the
turn of the season. Things that are, in a way, boring. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jlrzvxrLoRyBonrpVOMst9fnEiDQaW5SuXPv6OJGVBDb01lfoswHcKLxLOgL3cnADBZoVHIDj-03v0DLNwYOUMgeSu1XF3_ChLlOKbkkmTwacHXqHSY8a9zVrbL__k_y0hlLl2UG4R0/s1600/P1090010.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jlrzvxrLoRyBonrpVOMst9fnEiDQaW5SuXPv6OJGVBDb01lfoswHcKLxLOgL3cnADBZoVHIDj-03v0DLNwYOUMgeSu1XF3_ChLlOKbkkmTwacHXqHSY8a9zVrbL__k_y0hlLl2UG4R0/s320/P1090010.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter's coming...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQ5ivJfZQkzpKTLdlkN38elL5zBRdj4qgWZVOnEt3j6i9Zq5Y-xbMXUdzZmiqUcsVj9Uy1Q9jh2xjXXfZR6nF-tiKd03dyeug2YNNaeYdtcPa8UNtxvT10bEG34lwjWR6Ks6kW6zLBF4/s1600/P1090029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQ5ivJfZQkzpKTLdlkN38elL5zBRdj4qgWZVOnEt3j6i9Zq5Y-xbMXUdzZmiqUcsVj9Uy1Q9jh2xjXXfZR6nF-tiKd03dyeug2YNNaeYdtcPa8UNtxvT10bEG34lwjWR6Ks6kW6zLBF4/s320/P1090029.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-74702087020909887192016-10-30T03:19:00.000-07:002016-10-30T03:24:54.749-07:00Hot chocolate, new bears and in-bus pensioner fights...or, How to not spend money in KaDeWe<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEl8KsGcmRMy8nvGgLgJQh6l2LeY9PSs_-jMmn8k6O22oSiqa87l1PBmOiyfbgkBZMtUvqayibv2uLf6TtSNIPtRvhldpgY_v4ZjjhybXcRkBQum_F1KZB-iwJeOq5ineXjXBpsMPvcuw/s1600/WP_20161011_14_07_49_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEl8KsGcmRMy8nvGgLgJQh6l2LeY9PSs_-jMmn8k6O22oSiqa87l1PBmOiyfbgkBZMtUvqayibv2uLf6TtSNIPtRvhldpgY_v4ZjjhybXcRkBQum_F1KZB-iwJeOq5ineXjXBpsMPvcuw/s320/WP_20161011_14_07_49_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
October 2016 in "the most exciting city on the planet": grey, cold, damp and miserable. Sometimes, just to mix things up a little, Berlin has added in fog or relentless rain. It's true there has been the odd beautiful sunny day, and the autumn colours have been spectacular, when you can see them, but mainly, the world has been "fridge crossed with swimming pool" as Bridget Jones so excellently describes it in her <i>Diary</i>. And like Bridget, we've been reluctant to go out into any of it. Mel even went so far, in desperation, as to catch a cold, which served as an excellent excuse for spending all day on the warm sofa interspersed with naps in bed.<br />
<br />
However, even a cosy sofa can become tedious after a while, and although we're willing to be boring, being bored is not the same thing at all. We consider our options. Exhibitions? No, too full of wet people in steaming anoraks, trying to do culture while getting annoyed with each other. Cinema? Maybe, but we can't do that every day, too expensive! Visiting friends? It's a weekday, and our friends, unlike us, are all doing necessary and important things, like going to work, or picking up their children, or looking after their own incipient colds. Anyway, we need to go out.<br />
<br />
Pondering our choices, knowing we have to be careful with our cash, Mel hesitantly suggests, "Why don't we go to KaDeWe? I've never been there!"<br />
<br />
"You've never been there???"<br />
<br />
KaDeWe, the Kaufhaus Des Westens (Department Store of the West), the Harrods of Berlin, and an institution. Like Harrods, it is expensive, but unlike Harrods, people who live in the city and aren't Saudi millionaires actually shop here. Comfortably-off people, of course. But if feeling poor, cold and miserable...why not pretend to be rich in the warmth and bright lights of a department store?<br />
<br />
"That's an amazing idea," I say."We don't have to, you know, actually <i>buy </i>anything."<br />
<br />
"Absolutely not," says Mel firmly.<br />
<br />
So we wrap ourselves up ("But not too many layers, it'll be hot in there!") and embark on our rainy journey. The bus that goes from outside our house also goes nearly all the way into town, so we grab places on it. But not by the door of course. We wouldn't dare. You have to be very careful on this bus; every day, between around 8 in the morning and 2 in the afternoon, it is the scene of a fierce and - I was going to say silent, but it's actually quite noisy - struggle between feisty Berlin "Senioren", who crowd on to the bus with a calculating, competitive light in their eyes, mobility aids at the ready, to fight their way towards "The Seat By the Door". In their modish berets, snappy wool coats, careful make-up and occasional wigs, the elderly ladies of Zehlendorf instantly assess their chance and go for it...and if they can't get the Seat by the Door, then they will force their way through to an aisle seat, where they can take up their position for the remainder of the journey, their territory over two whole seats assured; try to get them to move over if you dare!<br />
<br />
I speculate that this is the result of a particular kind of anxiety, which becomes more and more vocal as a stop approaches - or rather, as soon as the bus departs from one stop, however far it still is to the next one. "Are you getting off here?" they will ask aggressively, should you by any unlikely chance be the one on the aisle. On one particularly memorable occasion, one tiny, wrinkled woman wearing bright pink actually got up from her own seat and sat down on another, younger woman's lap in order to achieve a few inches' improved access to the door. The younger woman was either too polite or too amazed to say anything; but I know who this woman is now, and I stay well away.<br />
<br />
Mel has another theory, which she explains to me as we travel along.
"They've been through everything, these ladies...war, the Russians, the Cold War, the
Wall coming down, reunification, David Hasselhoff...and now they've got
their pensioners' passes and their seat on the bus, they're damn well not
going to let any young whippersnappers take it away!"<br />
<br />
Today, however, a revolution has occurred and the seat by the door is occupied by a podgy, disgruntled looking boy of about thirteen or so. He furtively sweeps the bus with a glance, trying to figure out if anyone is going to dislodge him, but he is so heavily and determinedly sat in this seat that not even the elderly ladies ask him to move. Perhaps because he looks foreign. But there are whispers all down the bus...until he gets off at the S-Bahn station. Maybe he couldn't take the pressure after all. Anyway, these ladies are, really, the target audience for KaDeWe, as we are most definitely not. "They can be our role models!" Mel whispers and she's not wrong; I have always wanted to be an old lady in Berlin, as unlike English old ladies, they are not often held back by undue politeness or consideration for others. Maybe their often radical politics, underneath that conservative veneer, have something to do with it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHXENwAphyphenhyphenx7lRIsBH387PPmc8w3HlG-WXUg1khKv69XFp0AqkGSu4IFoB_uvFavgpiqFNvoQ7yPGxWicKixLKAhk9Lsx7-LfgMREjQVhUiGLgKKYJ-87wBHU-XqxreygTw0s-l1QsKJY/s1600/WP_20161011_14_06_37_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHXENwAphyphenhyphenx7lRIsBH387PPmc8w3HlG-WXUg1khKv69XFp0AqkGSu4IFoB_uvFavgpiqFNvoQ7yPGxWicKixLKAhk9Lsx7-LfgMREjQVhUiGLgKKYJ-87wBHU-XqxreygTw0s-l1QsKJY/s320/WP_20161011_14_06_37_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a>As we get to Wittenbergplatz, the U-Bahn station for KaDeWe, we are almost swept away in the crowd of people making their way up to the shops. But as we exit the station, we stop. A huge, black cloud of smoke is coming from the roof of the Europa Centre, the enormous, and enormously tacky shopping and business centre built in 1965 to prove West Berlin's economic and ideological superiority. <i>We may not have the TV Tower...but hey, look what we've got instead!</i> seems to have been the motto. What we have instead,at least now, seems to be an Irish Pub in the basement and endless shops selling mass-produced teddy bears in Berlin hoodies. Nonetheless, I realise, I would be distressed if it burnt down, for no other reason than nostalgia; it was the first place I found on my very first, too-bright morning in Berlin that was actually open and where I could buy a cup of coffee, go up in the lift and look out, through my hung-over eyes, over the whole of the shiny, glittering city, away out into the place where the buildings blurred into clouds at the distant horizon. And I still love Wittenbergplatz, the most elegant of all the U-Bahn stations.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslaARVC6UtnFuIZd_SSphkfgVlavg-tVMjQD-7-gSAVTGA4MwigHkwTR9LwvYUW9141pdSD2mUT4DgOwMwqF1JgKVl6_jB5mikfKYOKKS0VZlD4ciLEYBbVEfFzItciazqk8HwkIQr6c/s1600/WP_20161011_14_08_03_Pro.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslaARVC6UtnFuIZd_SSphkfgVlavg-tVMjQD-7-gSAVTGA4MwigHkwTR9LwvYUW9141pdSD2mUT4DgOwMwqF1JgKVl6_jB5mikfKYOKKS0VZlD4ciLEYBbVEfFzItciazqk8HwkIQr6c/s320/WP_20161011_14_08_03_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a> <br />
With that sense of underlying unease that any unexplained event requiring the emergency services now awakens in many Americans and Europeans, we, like everyone else, stand around taking photographs and wondering if a bomb has gone off. "Nah," decides Mel. "It's just a fire. Who would bomb the Europa Centre?" Sad, but true. So we make our way to KaDeWe, hurrying through the perfumed, golden, mirrored make-up and Chanel handbag section where the crowds are at their height. "Lifts! We have to go up in the lifts!" Lifts in department stores are always cool. Mel wants to see the "whole floor where they just sell shoes." This turns out to be not entirely true, but the shoes they do sell are exciting enough: Jimmy Choos, Manolo Blahniks, DMs and a whole array of designers I have never heard of. But excitement, like being boring, is relative; a desperate sales girl stands, face carefully blank, surrounded by about fifty boxes and single shoes littering the rug where her customer is demanding to try on yet another pair. In other, quieter sub-departments, the wares glitter on the racks while the shop assistants, with no customers, stand and talk. I realise I am already feeling slightly sick. "Let's go up and do the food," I urge. Food is always good. <br />
<br />
We wander around the floor; no aisles here, but mini-sections for bread, oil, whisky, wine, meat, vegetables, tea and coffee, chocolate, patisserie..Serrano hams hang from strings with huge bowls of olives beneath them. The entire whisky resources of Scotland appear to have made their way here. There is a whole bar that just sells Veuve Clicquot, my favourite champagne (well, the only one I really know, as we kept getting given it at our wedding). The oyster bar is just across the way. We keep moving; no oysters and champagne for us, not today anyway! But here, unlike in Harrods, the food hall is full of Berliners. Berliners having business meetings (female lawyers in shiny heels with sharp haircuts and bright white shirts, eating sausages and potato salad; cautious, grey-looking men with lined faces, comb-overs, briefcases and suits that seem to be drifting apart on waves of alcohol, who may have been coming here since before the Europa Centre was even built); middle-aged couples, he in a rock-star T-shirt, jeans and leather jacket, she with blonde highlights, trouser-suit and more foundation than the Rockefellers; but also young Berliners out for a treat, young Turkish couples, young white couples, Indian families, middle-aged respectable Zehlendorfer couples with hand-knitted jumpers and ecologically sound leather shoes, buying rolls and cakes for the weekend. Somehow, I feel at home.<br />
<br />
Moving on from the long lines of porcelain jars that contain any type of tea you could possibly want, I see, around the corner, a giant chocolate bear and a marzipan Brandenburger Tor. Social observation be blowed. It's time for <i>our </i>treat. "But can we afford a treat?" we wonder. We move cautiously around the patisserie and coffee bars, but they are packed. "There's a space at the hot chocolate bar!" Mel has spotted it, and we are in there. The other guests smile and move over, offering us space to hang our coats. They don't look too intimidating: a couple from out of town with a small boy, a middle-aged lady, probably from our bus. I am right. It is not intimidating. Hot chocolate is only 3 euros a cup and coffee is less. And when it arrives, it is the best hot chocolate we have ever drunk. We all sit in a line, the family, the lady, us, all thrilled to be sitting in KaDeWe, in the middle of Berlin, drinking hot chocolate while outside winter is on its way.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_TlqfVPJJB4-PGzrbigIubpuYC0_WpKNiOgb29Qolxe7egzvx3MXcAyFQNOOi27MX7i2cNHYxZOVrcz4qW2ymWxgNhZQbRLO7tFLM9uVGFfroEzxUPFtDkwMxfUr20OSsyeCGLlfPE94/s1600/WP_20161011_15_04_42_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_TlqfVPJJB4-PGzrbigIubpuYC0_WpKNiOgb29Qolxe7egzvx3MXcAyFQNOOi27MX7i2cNHYxZOVrcz4qW2ymWxgNhZQbRLO7tFLM9uVGFfroEzxUPFtDkwMxfUr20OSsyeCGLlfPE94/s320/WP_20161011_15_04_42_Pro.jpg" width="180" /></a><br />
On the way out we check out the prices of a few things, but we really don't need to pay 700 euros for a blanket. We do, however, end up spending something...I buy Mel a bear to help her over the first difficult times of winter in Berlin, and her sadness at a family bereavement, and to celebrate the fact that we are here. KaDeWe is all part of the circus. And now, so are we.<br />
<br />
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<br />islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-73549562307972467742016-10-22T02:20:00.003-07:002016-10-22T02:20:45.491-07:00From dusk 'til dawn...where the wild things are<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Living in this part of the city, right on the
very edge, makes me somehow more aware of those times at the edge of night or
day. Dusk and dawn are the times – at least now in autumn – when your senses
seem to be at their sharpest, not yet dulled by work or commuting or the need
to do the shopping. And for animals and birds, they are times that send an
imperative signal: Time to get up. Time to hunt. Time to be on the move. Time
to sleep. They can't turn over and hit the snooze button, or force themselves
awake with a cup of tea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sun, moon and
stars tell them what they need to be doing. So dawn and dusk are a time to keep
your eyes open. You never know what you might see.</span><br />
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Especially here in Berlin, where there are a
number of creatures out and about that you would be very surprised to see in
England. The most beautiful and most remote are the cranes that at dawn often
pass over our house en route to their feeding grounds out in Brandenburg. Most
people love the cranes. Why wouldn't you? They are graceful, agile, wild,
calling to each other as they pass in their huge flocks through the sunrise,
doing no harm. But other creatures are...well, to put it mildly, not quite so graceful.
And their relationship with the human race is a little more complicated.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMh9ZU9FN2FnYyf9QTjuDcl6wS939XpMG09mM8rgai9oOLAz54l-oH14AQXqD5Z-uNESZMAzeVRxzxj9tdTXIDhTwO9lkREjFijEwDKDeqladSFXCTm8DicliwSE3XF1PdEylE4LDI4FA/s1600/Sachtlebenstrasse+Wild+Boar4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMh9ZU9FN2FnYyf9QTjuDcl6wS939XpMG09mM8rgai9oOLAz54l-oH14AQXqD5Z-uNESZMAzeVRxzxj9tdTXIDhTwO9lkREjFijEwDKDeqladSFXCTm8DicliwSE3XF1PdEylE4LDI4FA/s320/Sachtlebenstrasse+Wild+Boar4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where the wild things live</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBOTyEC0Ng49vQDXjI8cbm-iFuhunOX-aDMNz5El9zN67ZvLJEwOtgLYNvRS7qoBdKCaREDnI3tX9VliDldqrRgs9iYmuPzQrGzDMWLywp3tXRq75EM6K1w-frQJNNNIEie1EgsT3ryo/s1600/Sachtlebenstrasse+Wild+Boar3.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBOTyEC0Ng49vQDXjI8cbm-iFuhunOX-aDMNz5El9zN67ZvLJEwOtgLYNvRS7qoBdKCaREDnI3tX9VliDldqrRgs9iYmuPzQrGzDMWLywp3tXRq75EM6K1w-frQJNNNIEie1EgsT3ryo/s320/Sachtlebenstrasse+Wild+Boar3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A couple of weeks ago I went out at a
relatively civilised hour, but not <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">very</i>
late, to buy some rolls for breakfast. Cycling down to the track that (apparently)
used to be a favourite place for spies to hang out, I got to the reedbeds and was
surprised to see the edges of the paths – in fact any green spaces at all – were
no longer green. Instead, it looked as though a giant rotovator had made a
clean sweep of the entire area. The earth was turned over in huge chunks, all
greenery subsumed or – well, eaten, I presume. Even the path itself had
disappeared in some places. Everything was quiet, no sound but the birds
chirping in the trees, and a disgruntled elderly couple poking at the ground
with sticks. What had happened?</span><br />
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wildschwein</i>
were back. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpJEccY2fVBcm_bwMw3quy_Gx77RNSsOitVudaDV1QeP24QXuHZGTtFICPNmig8aYzfSqTrF9jGb010hgQ5Ar32kzI9u_J0GmsaCxYVwdM-w6rRHOqg8Xe7vCtRpKLnKGD3EcdZz0RtQ/s1600/Wildschwein1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFpJEccY2fVBcm_bwMw3quy_Gx77RNSsOitVudaDV1QeP24QXuHZGTtFICPNmig8aYzfSqTrF9jGb010hgQ5Ar32kzI9u_J0GmsaCxYVwdM-w6rRHOqg8Xe7vCtRpKLnKGD3EcdZz0RtQ/s320/Wildschwein1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't worry, I didn't get this close (Photo: wildschweine.net)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Wild boar – not an exotic sight here, but an
often invisible force. They move by night and sleep by day...but in spring, you
might see them trotting along with a herd of little boar behind them. If you do
– watch out! It's best to keep quite still and if you have a dog – pretend you
haven't. The dog will probably try and pretend it's not with you, either. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In autumn, Wildschwein become particularly
active, moving around Berlin and Brandenburg in search of food, ignoring any borders, rooting up
lawns and gardens, passing invisibly (well, mostly) over huge distances. Once I
saw one in summer, which practically never happens. Katharina and I had gone
for a swim at the lake. It was a hot day, and the banks of the lake were
crowded with trippers and sun-worshippers. Suddenly, out of the hedge exploded
a young boar. It was evidently a teenager that had lost its way, and at the
sight of us all, froze. The human teenagers around us froze too, sun-cream in
hand or towel at their knees, mouths gaping in surprise. No-one moved. Time
seemed to stand still while the young boar wobbled desperately on its gangly legs,
head turning from side to side, looking for an escape – then dashed back into
the bushes again. A buzz of excitement arose. Where had it come from? Where did
it go? Luckily, no enormous mother sow had followed it...</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These animals really are wild, and it was exciting
to realise they were living their wild lives just out of sight while we bathed
in the lake. There have been mutterings and mutiny against this force of
nature, though. Especially in Spandau, to the north-west of Berlin, and in
Stahnsdorf, our neighbouring district in former East Germany. Spandauers – well,
they <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">would</i> complain, wouldn't they?
Spandau may be officially part of Berlin, but to most Berliners, it's a
middle-class, snooty villlage that just happens to have a medieval fortress in
the middle of it, where people do uncool things like hold jousting events. Not that Mel or I would ever attend such an event, or that I have any prejudices at all against Spandau, you
understand. But Stahnsdorf...Stahnsdorf is different.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsWGQC7yGNO59MViIEjsY3mzkbK60rn-LfW3W2oSmi6DwW1DCsBIOoZz0sBi5PDwv1-NPZQnXCA5rP-an3hNjRBJ2VjxhoVWuu2mgmYywALBXIELE-OFWFWI8RZp_qJXqjAi4HBxyiJmw/s1600/Stahnsdorf+Cemetery+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsWGQC7yGNO59MViIEjsY3mzkbK60rn-LfW3W2oSmi6DwW1DCsBIOoZz0sBi5PDwv1-NPZQnXCA5rP-an3hNjRBJ2VjxhoVWuu2mgmYywALBXIELE-OFWFWI8RZp_qJXqjAi4HBxyiJmw/s320/Stahnsdorf+Cemetery+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stahnsdorf Cemetery</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtUMt3OAH0Q9TP-ArJfhJh-Jjo16fk3kY0EwDNfBkmRQVs_podgYse7BbMiBvpbdmPpZVLjDTebNbCeIyricYMvEgxiXBprKD8VB6ocC86nCs0Ht19xeZKd8LHU8CQ1p53uclskEyw5s/s1600/Stahnsdorf+Cemetery+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLtUMt3OAH0Q9TP-ArJfhJh-Jjo16fk3kY0EwDNfBkmRQVs_podgYse7BbMiBvpbdmPpZVLjDTebNbCeIyricYMvEgxiXBprKD8VB6ocC86nCs0Ht19xeZKd8LHU8CQ1p53uclskEyw5s/s320/Stahnsdorf+Cemetery+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos: http://www.suedwestkirchhof.de/bildergalerie.html</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Stahnsdorf is a little-known district between
Kleinmachnow, Teltow and Potsdam. But like many little-known districts, it
hides beauties, stories and secrets. Its best-known claim to fame – which is
not nearly as famous as it should be – is its incredible graveyard, the
South-West Cemetery (http://www.suedwestkirchhof.de/kirchhof.html). It's not
just a cemetery. It's a secret garden with acres of tumbling vines and flowers,
pinewoods and formal gardens, with the burial-places of many Berlin luminaries
like industrialist Werner Siemens, the dictionary creator Carl Langenscheidt and
the painter Lovis Corinth half-hidden along its dusky pathways. Among them is
Mel's favourite, F.<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">W</span>.Murnau, creator of the 1920s Dracula movies...</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijJjWW6z1EuqmHnThbBDuQinLJgMxbHJ9T68qiDJTvdqfYKBa9bBANtJBnBzEFb5fxxf_AC6ipNuRX4vPpMhjYVQi2jW1TXwjeidC1xt5bUMQcpkjmfbN6DfP99P3j9yROUSsEy8Nfkk/s1600/P1080554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijJjWW6z1EuqmHnThbBDuQinLJgMxbHJ9T68qiDJTvdqfYKBa9bBANtJBnBzEFb5fxxf_AC6ipNuRX4vPpMhjYVQi2jW1TXwjeidC1xt5bUMQcpkjmfbN6DfP99P3j9yROUSsEy8Nfkk/s320/P1080554.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grrr.Aaagh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXqZcmKRgLHJPBQ3se4G-KNiogku-lAYYaIKGhuHDCdHJokutwKwFuS3TThSVglHqsi_ftcDVGY4p-f8_GMLo4KgGg4OVl098Ly-89ED2FU0YcL9wHCDwCvvwjOp1WL30_8TB0RQuLXg/s1600/P1080557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXqZcmKRgLHJPBQ3se4G-KNiogku-lAYYaIKGhuHDCdHJokutwKwFuS3TThSVglHqsi_ftcDVGY4p-f8_GMLo4KgGg4OVl098Ly-89ED2FU0YcL9wHCDwCvvwjOp1WL30_8TB0RQuLXg/s320/P1080557.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But it's an international place, too. At its
heart is a beautiful wooden chapel, the Norwegian Chapel, where concerts and
services are held, and at its edges are two special graveyards for English
and Italian soldiers from the First World War, still maintained in manicured,
military splendour. It's a place where many people belong: Jews, Protestants,
Catholics, and about 15,000 interlopers, who were brought here from Schoeneberg in 1939 after
Albert Speer, Hitler's architect, ordered that their original burial places be
rooted up to make way for the gigantic "North-South Axis" he had
planned for Hitler's Berlin. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gthD2-KaKbrLCpcCPMu1OkBCzXlSmk7h1d_Ann8QBXRfmRVyDji7OQzf7vwcvzLB54WWNkRPnd4hQD-aScBBPtEx5jXqN0siyIMyvrvUdT2AEHsBE3J4ShzlUKh58k9O3K827SJAPWc/s1600/P1080558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_gthD2-KaKbrLCpcCPMu1OkBCzXlSmk7h1d_Ann8QBXRfmRVyDji7OQzf7vwcvzLB54WWNkRPnd4hQD-aScBBPtEx5jXqN0siyIMyvrvUdT2AEHsBE3J4ShzlUKh58k9O3K827SJAPWc/s320/P1080558.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Norwegian Chapel</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Back in the early 1900s, though, Stahnsdorf
was almost as unknown as it is today, and far harder to get to. So the
ingenious idea was born of creating a "Cemetery Railway", the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Friedhofsbahn</i> which from 1913 until 1961,
carried both mourners and day-trippers from Wannsee to the graveyard. But
Stahnsdorf was another place at the heart of Cold War border disputes, cut off politically
from West Germany and geographically from most of the East. The East German
government and the Russians closed the railway in 1961 and the station was
demolished in 1976. Now, all that remains are the iron tracks and a huge stone
memorial.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At first glance, approaching from the
cemetery through heaps of golden autumn leaves in the fragile warmth of the
October sun, we just take in the outside of the memorial. But walk around the
other side, and you are suddenly brought back to the present with a
half-poignant, half-bitter description of the railway's fate. The whole history
of reunification is in these few words. After the Wall came down, an agreement
was made as part of the reunification treaty that all railway routes that had
been destroyed or blocked because of the Wall should be restored. But this
particular railway was, somehow, left out. It was not seen as important enough,
or perhaps its geographical position would still make it too difficult, or
perhaps it would simply cost too much money. Whatever the reason, the
Evangelical Church, that owns the cemetery, took the German government to court
over it. And lost.</span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nowadays the cemetery is looked after by
volunteers, waiting for cyclists, walkers and car-drivers to arrive so that
they can be given maps and tours. But today, there is only one topic of
conversation: the Wildschwein. As we enter the gates, we can see that the
flowerbeds have been overturned and the garden at the entrance completely dug
over. We assume that some garden renovation is going on...but no. "No, no,
no," the moustachioed volunteer at the gate mourns, "it's the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wildschwein</i>. They're back. We can't keep
them out." He explains that a normal fence won't stop them, "and we
haven't got enough money to properly fence the whole cemetery." As we
cycle round the quiet pathways, we can see why. The cemetery is vast, the
jungle of trees and bushes the perfect place for a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wildschwein</i> to hang out. We don't see one, of course. Not in the
daytime. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On our way out again, the volunteers and
visitors are still discussing the boar and their ways. It's true it's annoying,
although they seem to have kept, so far, respectfully to the more decorative
areas of the cemetery. I feel sympathy for the people who manage the <span id="goog_937211252"></span><span id="goog_937211253"></span>graveyard. Yet underneath, I also feel a sneaking sense of respect for the
boar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we get back to Zehlendorf,
and darkness falls, it's nice to know they're out there, doing their wild
things, invisible, but real. </span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbNjOFKryaEvsnytaDTdf-VEpETxyY5YimMHPDBKUUq1-go85mw0QnxcIhoho8-IHYaHovJbYNBY-xHsUuODCobV8WcGFVlMNLd5RKFHQUii5iYtR1EBVGvC2DnyVtYGG-LfLUeB6eDU/s1600/P1080737.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbNjOFKryaEvsnytaDTdf-VEpETxyY5YimMHPDBKUUq1-go85mw0QnxcIhoho8-IHYaHovJbYNBY-xHsUuODCobV8WcGFVlMNLd5RKFHQUii5iYtR1EBVGvC2DnyVtYGG-LfLUeB6eDU/s320/P1080737.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And I did get the rolls, in the end</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span> </span></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-31498129915722671932016-10-16T03:53:00.001-07:002016-10-22T02:27:15.551-07:00Gordon Parks. Outside Looking In.<h2>
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<h2 class="article-title">
<i>Gordon Parks</i></h2>
<h2>
<i>I am you . Selected Works . 1942 – 1978</i></h2>
<div class="article-subtitle">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftCZU8DwRe12tj07N0fDQGQDGeOTlc7tXewcNcxIRr0pW0byRcO1-GjqJjfjPi9qpqlwQdO5mJcRrrnt2oIKbr0pnvPORyrxCfKb5tOJ7oqmzBwymsATufCLbc7IwjEeWfQsGLLvS-3A/s1600/gordon-parks-outside-looking-in%252C-mobile%252C-alabama.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftCZU8DwRe12tj07N0fDQGQDGeOTlc7tXewcNcxIRr0pW0byRcO1-GjqJjfjPi9qpqlwQdO5mJcRrrnt2oIKbr0pnvPORyrxCfKb5tOJ7oqmzBwymsATufCLbc7IwjEeWfQsGLLvS-3A/s400/gordon-parks-outside-looking-in%252C-mobile%252C-alabama.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gordon Parks. Outside Looking In. Mobile, Alabama, 1956</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
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There is a whole world of
difference between choosing to be an outsider and being forced to be. But what makes someone an outsider? This can be an abstract cultural kind of question; or a life or death consideration. My own experience is pretty banal. In Somerset, I was British, I was white, I worked, I had enough money. But I was also gay, had lived abroad and could speak more than one language. This alone was enough to make some people exclude me from conversations, whisper about me in corners and basically, reject me as an outsider who would never fit in. Yet, even my outsider status in Somerset meant that in a way,
I was an insider. I knew what I was dealing with, and I was choosing to exclude myself as well as suffering
exclusion. It hurt, yet I was also <i>glad </i>not to fit in. Most people never have much of an option about being glad. Being an outsider often means death, physically or spiritually.<br />
But being an outsider also has its points. Being an outsider and an artist, for example, means you have the chance to draw people who are on "the inside" into your own world; you can try to bring the outside and the inside together.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRaJr4xWpgEN7gOAn-KNwJmtAMtWMNSTcS0mtyzDFXSdPv-H_5s3KJjPLUYcTcEL9c8_J9KohXcaYtcYipx_Tb2zhhyVCjxo_GcBn1FAXcJFJH-f8v1Lr8ommycghgoZVpt7gS2Hmc-UI/s1600/8_amerika_haus_draussen_neu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRaJr4xWpgEN7gOAn-KNwJmtAMtWMNSTcS0mtyzDFXSdPv-H_5s3KJjPLUYcTcEL9c8_J9KohXcaYtcYipx_Tb2zhhyVCjxo_GcBn1FAXcJFJH-f8v1Lr8ommycghgoZVpt7gS2Hmc-UI/s320/8_amerika_haus_draussen_neu.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amerika-Haus (Photo: (c) David Becker)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This was brought home to me forcefully when I saw an exhibition at the Amerika-Haus, in what used to be the official US cultural and information centre in Berlin. It was the site of political protests and demonstrations as well as cultural exchange, but gradually fell into disuse as reunification proceeded and Americans withdrew more and more behind armoured guards and exclusion zones. But in the heady Cold War days, the Americans were right at the spiritual centre of West Berlin, right behind Zoo Station<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on
Hardenbergstrasse, where two universities still live in happy proximity to glamourous West Berlin
cafes that seem to have been there for ever and the drunken, mad or simply poor people that come to find shelter and soup at the Berlin Stadtmission. Gentrification is making inroads, but
Zoo still remains comfortingly sleazy, busy and open to all comers – as it were. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Now CO-Berlin is a house
dedicated to art and if possible, political art. Going up
the steps and pushing open the 1950s glass door, I went inside with a feeling of
homecoming. To my left an art bookshop, to my right a cafe full of chattering
students and hipsters and art enthusiasts of all ages. There was a sense of
excitement in the air, probably linked to the European Month of Photography
which just opened here. Or perhaps because of the stunning exhibition that they
have managed to bring to Berlin, a retrospective of Gordon Parks' photographs.
Gordon Parks was the first mainstream black photographer in America and used
his photography and journalism to tell Americans shocking stories of what
was happening in their country, from the 1940s to the late '70s. Glamourous,
theatrical shots for <i>Life </i>and <i>Vogue </i>sit
alongside stories of black gangs in Harlem and police brutality in Chicago,
extreme poverty in Rio and New York and the scandal of segregation in Alabama.
Parks did not only photograph the people he saw. He got to know them. He lived
with them. Sometimes, this could cause them problems – the family who let him
photograph them in the South were chased from their home after the report came
out, and Parks (and his employer, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Life</i>
magazine) had to step in to pay for their new life.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The fashion shots are placed almost at the heart of the exhibition, alongside a clip from a film showing
police reprisals against black drug dealers. At first, I thought this unseemly; how can <i>Vogue</i> sit comfortably with violence? But of course, that's the point. While all of this violence, poverty and despair was going on, other
(white, rich) people were continuing to live in a poetical, fantastical world
of clothes, cars and cigars. I could draw a moral and say, Just as we do
today. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuQ82TxVqyxIkxsa9JXLdbEN9gfyXyu9CwgJKmi0Tmg1vJgrj2p_HDD2LZcFVrI5jyVqLU-_OPn4t2u1wfOJsvG9EkPI8b_e-d65mwxTRsQrJNspFMbJ8LDfZkgRbsFFA9qrUaxhdPQ4/s1600/Gordon+Parks+Zoo+Life+1959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeuQ82TxVqyxIkxsa9JXLdbEN9gfyXyu9CwgJKmi0Tmg1vJgrj2p_HDD2LZcFVrI5jyVqLU-_OPn4t2u1wfOJsvG9EkPI8b_e-d65mwxTRsQrJNspFMbJ8LDfZkgRbsFFA9qrUaxhdPQ4/s320/Gordon+Parks+Zoo+Life+1959.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gordon Parks. Shot for <i>Life </i>magazine, 1959.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But it's more complex than this.
Those photographs of white fashion models, actors, brides and status symbols are
also exhilarating in their own right. And with their beauty comes meaning. Even
the photographs that were most clearly done for advertising purposes – the
shots of the models in another Zoo, not in Berlin but in America, striped dresses set amongst the stripes of the
zebra enclosure, a chirpy model in a white fur coat half-hiding the white fur of a polar bear – refer to a world beyond advertising. For those with eyes to
see, they indicate the contradiction at the heart of the
photographs. Humans are animals too, with passions, skin and fur. But humans
are nothing like animals. Instead of natural dignity, we have trappings stolen from those very animals we are pretending to be like. Our freedom to wear
luxurious clothing contrasts with the animals' imprisonment in cages they don't
understand. And maybe too, we live in a zoo of our own making. What does Lou
Reed say?<br />
<br />
<i>"Remember that the city is a funny place/Something like a circus
or a zoo." </i></div>
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<br /></div>
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I left the exhibition completely
bowled over by what I had seen, with a sense that the meaning of the
photographs was continuing to resonate in the city I was walking through. And I was
grateful. Before seeing this exhibition, I was beginning to feel that
Berlin has turned into a playground, its darkness confined to the safely past history embalmed in memorials, guided tours and books while in the present, young people from America or the UK come here to make the most of the liberal
freedoms and cheap rents (compared to London or New York) that Berlin has to
offer (just as I did); and to immerse themselves in the drama of
another country's history as a way of accessing their own (just as I did
too). Neo-Nazis have been burning down refugee homes, yet everywhere you go, people are at play: the vegan cafes, knitting circles, pop-up craft markets, baby
yoga and English-speaking bars that seem to stretch the length of some streets in Neukölln
or Prenzlauer Berg; the queues of Japanese tourists waiting to sample real
German beer or real Turkish kebabs, authenticity created for smartphone cameras; the sense that whole districts are turning
into nothing more than circuses or zoos places for tourists to escape to; I have had the sense
that Berlin was slipping away from me. But don't I play too? Of course. <br />
<br />
I ponder on why these things distress me. Is it my age? Probably? Envy? No, I don't think so.Maybe I envy people their energy and idealism, but I hope I still have a bit of that left, too. And anyway, lots of these things are good in themselves. These people are local, and they are doing something local; they are making things happen where they live, they are not part of big corporations, they are trying to make the world a more attentive, individual place. Good for them. But I mourn for <i>something</i>. Sometimes I have the sensation that this is play in a different sense too, playing like playing in the theatre, a way of pretending. Where is the passion about German life today,
where is the sense of taking part in actual, lived history now? I know it's there, and on a local level, lots of people are trying to make a difference, to the refugees who have come here in their thousands and to their own friends and families. But this exhibition did something else, too. It
gave me back the belief that Berlin is still a part of the bigger world, still
trying to make those connections between art and society, poverty then and
poverty now. It gave me a feeling of anger – righteous anger at what is
happening all over the world and gratitude that some people still bear witness
to it. And a feeling of hope. </div>
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<br /></div>
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In fact, it wasn't boring at all.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN3g6ch7iyVtkAu9maocFspxMjGonPvR9f539_Mp-B4D3QxWOh4jhSIhKGS6uWSuLf74tViuXYrEG31KbWXbIkTMd43i-FdhJvsjOErAZA7mDUjd_BUjKF6W-AQIoGgdxPSqO-TWTfVIc/s1600/gordon-parks-american-gothic%252C-washington%252C-d.c..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN3g6ch7iyVtkAu9maocFspxMjGonPvR9f539_Mp-B4D3QxWOh4jhSIhKGS6uWSuLf74tViuXYrEG31KbWXbIkTMd43i-FdhJvsjOErAZA7mDUjd_BUjKF6W-AQIoGgdxPSqO-TWTfVIc/s400/gordon-parks-american-gothic%252C-washington%252C-d.c..jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gordon Parks. American Gothic. 1942.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-74120375772709376722016-10-11T02:59:00.001-07:002016-10-11T03:08:52.057-07:00Not Going To Exhibitions<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiyGI2BrVifRQjGuB2YNTPDeEDdwcgvNharVm3X5jXBCAlVlI_DKtxbwK3kfIJhfSTC_A3g9sycQfo9YhGtmT8Dwhto2h0w4mY82caW6w9j_qmpGjdf51Dyzwud-bOYevy5FXd3NhZ2Ys/s1600/800px-Berlin_-_U-Bahnhof_Leopoldplatz_-_Linien_U6%252C_U9_%25287618723360%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiyGI2BrVifRQjGuB2YNTPDeEDdwcgvNharVm3X5jXBCAlVlI_DKtxbwK3kfIJhfSTC_A3g9sycQfo9YhGtmT8Dwhto2h0w4mY82caW6w9j_qmpGjdf51Dyzwud-bOYevy5FXd3NhZ2Ys/s320/800px-Berlin_-_U-Bahnhof_Leopoldplatz_-_Linien_U6%252C_U9_%25287618723360%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">U-Bahnhof Leopoldplatz, Wedding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In the past week I
visited one exhibition, half-visited another and entirely failed to visit a
third, in a typically Berlin kind of way. Then again, who needs an art exhibition when
you've got <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">department stores in </span>Wedding?</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I hadn't been to Wedding for many years. It's a poor district
in the north of Berlin, synonymous with working class consciousness and <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">during </span>the
Weim<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">a</span>r Republic, violent street fighting between the Nazi and Communist
parties. Nowadays, it's still poor but it's known too for its ethnic diversity,
with Turkish families and many people of African descent living here. It's
become a centre for a new kind of class consciousness (new to Berlin) that is as much to do
with ethnicity, race and difference as it is with money.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihsPdZz_ACbp7hJgCznig5oew4nBF5vyvLThFYZXezNM4lErdr4tcut2E40uf9qqtbAiCqjv2PhHJCqi2Ma-eV-mcqoIa9EUeo_izot8qbZdkMnqsvqKty8ln-yi7Ffg0spW6J_TthMDs/s1600/Bruesseler_Eck_noerdliche_seite__.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihsPdZz_ACbp7hJgCznig5oew4nBF5vyvLThFYZXezNM4lErdr4tcut2E40uf9qqtbAiCqjv2PhHJCqi2Ma-eV-mcqoIa9EUeo_izot8qbZdkMnqsvqKty8ln-yi7Ffg0spW6J_TthMDs/s320/Bruesseler_Eck_noerdliche_seite__.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: erratik-institut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I lived <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">in Wedding in the </span></span><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Brüsseler Straße</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%;"></span></span> in 1995. In the depths
of winter, I moved into the flat of a delicate and refined Bulgarian lady, a
tiny woman who could only have been in her forties, I suppose, but then seemed
to me to have stepped out of time altogether; a stocky, small person with a
thick black fringe cut dead across her anxiously wrinkled forehead, a
distressed bob and a selection of florally embroidered thick white woollen
jumpers. She lived in an overheated room with a number of cats, scented
candles, embroidered doilies and bookshelves heavy with the weight of
Bulgarian, German and Russian tomes, often poetry, which, as I later
discovered, she had annotated and underlined heavily at verses which she found
particularly moving. These tended to be the verses which <i>I</i> found particularly irritating,
but by then we both knew that I was a mistake as a lodger anywa<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">y<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">. One day I came home to <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">find her pacing the floor after she discovered a book in my room called </span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Les<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">bian Passion</span></i>: </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">"I thought your friend was<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"> </span>just a <i>f</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><i>riend</i>, even though she does have <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">short hair...but <i>now</i>..."</span></span></span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">This experience, together
with my exodus from the house shortly afterwards, had an unfortunate effect on my
relationship to Wedding. But I found afterwards that I could not forget it so easily. Wedding, with its broad streets and
looming tenements, built for the thousands of workers that came to live there,
is the home of migrants from all over the world<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">, and it's <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">also just north of Berlin's only real port.</span></span> Close by, at</span>
Westhafen, a huge industrial area spreads around docks where men, cranes
and winches load and unload ships and smoke rises from enormous chimneys beyond
the deep basins where the ships lie at anchor. It's a mysterious place, a place
that's easy to see but hard to get to from the huge road, full of roaring
traffic, that heads up from <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Moabit </span>and on past Pl<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">ö</span>tzensee to Wedding,
trams competing with buses and cars for attention amidst the din and a slender
cycle track weaving dangerously between the edge of the road and the edge of
the bridge. This is where I used to stand and look out over the docks into the
evening sky, feeling at home as much as in Southampton or Dover. I never
understood why I loved it so much until an old lady said, "People who emigrate like to live near
water. It's as if they feel it connects them with where they've come from. They
can be migrants for ever." She was right<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">, at least as far as I<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">'m concerned.</span></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eTURyLjGwyui8hKnS6HUSvKJ3WoezZH1UqCV8aG4gFJfJQmYttT6ebaLbQMsSdAIO55enOOHA6Q8ynKjRokGSu6FwS5Tuwxw1Zz4gukADt6HkoLeCYm8zrA8Z7iIJcpM9cVZnKCd5xc/s1600/330px-Westhafen_%2528Berlin%2529_Administration_Building.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eTURyLjGwyui8hKnS6HUSvKJ3WoezZH1UqCV8aG4gFJfJQmYttT6ebaLbQMsSdAIO55enOOHA6Q8ynKjRokGSu6FwS5Tuwxw1Zz4gukADt6HkoLeCYm8zrA8Z7iIJcpM9cVZnKCd5xc/s320/330px-Westhafen_%2528Berlin%2529_Administration_Building.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Behala Port Building at Westhafen. Photo: de.wikipedia.org</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span>Wedding is full of
migrants, and many of them are now African, or of African descent. African
cafes have opened, African shops appeared amidst the department stores and
Turkish markets. Rather than <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">try to become</span></span> assimilated, as many people tend to assume migrants <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">ought to want to </span>do, so<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">me p<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">eople pref<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">er to keep <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">a complex and complicated identity, rather than papering over the cracks<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">.<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span>And a new arts centre has also opened, with a
focus on people of colour and their interactions with Germany and migration
generally. At least, this is what the website says. So I decided to take a
look. It<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">'s </span>time to do something new and to look at what is happening in
Berlin, in Wedding, right now, I decide, not to eternally think of small Bulgarian
landladies and vast cold streets covered in snow. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJkCm_na9wvP6Ew52FMQYmp1aHteOl4MvumrX9_0pgy7BnK3rF_fQefLLjwG66u4PdScWgleGTzgHkPK5MI7uqg17FMtNveGGqSEF9zUIRPEwj1vgxW97FfvX9zN0-mo7DpePemtRTJa0/s1600/U9+kudamm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJkCm_na9wvP6Ew52FMQYmp1aHteOl4MvumrX9_0pgy7BnK3rF_fQefLLjwG66u4PdScWgleGTzgHkPK5MI7uqg17FMtNveGGqSEF9zUIRPEwj1vgxW97FfvX9zN0-mo7DpePemtRTJa0/s320/U9+kudamm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">U9 towards Leopoldplatz. Photo: flickr.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">So on a freezing cold day I
embark on the adventure, getting on the U9 at Zoo to head up to Leopoldplatz.
I soon realise that it might be cold outside, but my woolly tights and high
boots are causing me to nearly pass out in the heat of the Underground.
Commuters are crowding on to the train with packed bags and mobile phones, <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">exhausted men and women are</span> going back up to their homes and families. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Everyone looks grey and tired, and I remember what's it's like to actual<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">ly live here, to work here. </span></span>The
train gets more and more crowded at each stop, until at Leopoldplatz, we all flood
out and I climb the stairs </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">up to
the surface </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">with a sense of familiar weariness . To be greeted by my favourite department store in
Berlin...Karstadt<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">!</span> It gleams and glows in the <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">dusk, where ra<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">in is starting to fall<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">, te</span></span></span>mpting me in....but no, I have an exhibition
to go to! I realise that it may be a long way to the arts centre and remember,
again, how long the streets of Berlin can be, especially in winter, <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">in the rain</span>. I decide to walk through, just <i>walk through</i> Karstadt to the
exit on the other side of the store, which takes me about fifty metres further
towards my destination. Then I walk on. Getting wetter and wetter, but also with a
sense of pride. This is what to do in Berlin! And so I
walk. And walk...</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Eventually, at a
complicated crossing of several streets at once, I realise this must be my
destination. A large white brick building, obviously a former factory, stands
at the crossroads, with an A-frame sign outside. Savvy Berlin! Hurrah! I am
here! But where <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">am</i> I exactly?</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I walk around the
building. No doors. No signs. Okay, a large factory-type door that seems
resolutely shut. Then a student turns up who only speaks English. We walk
around the building again, together. Eventually, I try the factory door again, and to
my surprise, it opens. On to an empty courtyard surrounded by empty project
rooms. Hmm. Abandoned stepladders, old desks and cardboard boxes are stacked in
some of the rooms. Then I see a light. At the end of the courtyard, one room is
actually inhabited. By young people sitting at architects' desks, drawing
something or other, and drinking coffee. We stare in at them. They stare back.
Then turn away, back to their drawing boards.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">To the right of this
office is a long flight of stairs descending into a basement. At the bottom of
the stairs, on the basement door, is a sign, the same one as on the A-frame
outside. But the door is locked and it is dark. There is no-one here at all.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">"Well, I guess I'm
gonna wait for my tutor," the young girl declares who has accompanied me
dubiously on this voyage into the creative heart of Wedding. "Good luck
with that," I reply. "I'm off to Karstadt."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">She looks puzzled. But I
am already on my way. As I return to the mizzly streets, I laugh. This reminds
me of all my former lives in Berlin. Not going to things – because you couldn't find them, because they had decided to close early, because the bus had
been cancelled, or because you suddenly realised that number 222 was in an entirely other
district to number 17, even if they were both on the same street, and your feet
hurt too much to walk another two miles – <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was a continual feature of my life back then. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Maybe doing new things <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">has to be this way. It <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">demands</span></span> <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">th<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">e ability to cope with things not happening as much as of them happening<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">. I can laugh about it now, but back then, I <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">used to cry.</span></span></span></span></span> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Back at Karstadt, I
almost run up the escalator to the gradually quietening second floor where Home
Textiles are sold. It is getting late and soon everyone will be going home, but
I still have an hour or so. I wander around the bright displays of blankets and throws as darkness falls outside, looking
for something to make our home a little cosier now that the Berlin winter is on
its way. Approaching the area where fabrics are measured and cut, I
see that the assistant working there is already advising another woman who
seems to have endless questions about some fleecy material that misguidedly,
she wants to make into a skirt. In typical Berlin fashion, the assistant
refuses to flatter her: "Just you wait, it might look nice now, but once
you wear it, it'll ride up and everyone will be able to see your
knickers." The young woman – blonde, glasses, short-sightedly peering at
the material – is not to be put off: "But are you really sure? What if I
cut it on the bias?" "Trust me," I cut in cheerfully,
"she's right, it'll just stick to everything else you're wearing."
"Uh-huh," the young woman nods gloomily, a stock German answer to any
remark that they can't decide how to categorise. </span><span lang="DE" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">"Jaja," the assistant agrees with me, "Sie kennen
das, nicht?" </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">I do know all about it, from sorry
experience, and I also know that no-one here will mind me butting in with a
remark. It's Wedding, not the Ku'damm, and one thing I love about these poorer
districts in Berlin – like Neuk<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">ö</span>lln – is that anyone can say anything to
anyone, just about, as long as it's well meant. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The assistant, like a
busy hedgehog with her spiky haircut and stocky little figure, is now
bustling back to the counter to help a young Turkish woman who is anxiously
trying to choose some gauze material. "That's wedding nerves!" the assistant
chuckles as the young woman dithers between buying two, four or five metres. The assistant isn't German after all, I realise, but maybe Eastern European, maybe even
Bulgarian. "I must ring my mum!" the young woman insists, treading
from one foot to another and turning round to yell at her boyfriend,
"Where are you going? What shall I buy?" Then back to the assistant:
"I'll take two metres. No, four of that one and two of the other.
No...I'll just take it all. Whatever you've got!" Her Smartphone vibrates.
"Mum! I'm buying it!" </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Then another assistant
appears – kindly, blonde – and cuts my fabric for me. "It's more than a
metre, but you can take it all anyway." Off I go to the check-out, where
another Turkish woman puts through the sale, and I depart for the U-Bahn via
the basement cafe, where couples are still sitting drinking coffee as the store
empties around them. My journey back to Zehlendorf will take a while, and as I
sit on the overheated train, passing through Wedding, Tiergarten, Wilmersdorf and
eventually Steglitz, my fellow passengers become increasingly middle class, but
all just as interesting. At least, they are to me.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Who needs an exhibition,
I think, when you've got Karstadt and Berlin? </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieEEyXOHoOcbsXMccRQTnhyphenhyphenDDBpky2a323-LGGb8XEoVEEBTULeGJe9QnkWCvn40wXpJchxrrhEDcbMUL4LdSOPmC4z4z8v_LrBID0TzcZrNKp9pJn-nE_78Ws9-B0FrrjIiRl1QsQ-S4/s1600/Karstadt+at+night+golocal+de.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieEEyXOHoOcbsXMccRQTnhyphenhyphenDDBpky2a323-LGGb8XEoVEEBTULeGJe9QnkWCvn40wXpJchxrrhEDcbMUL4LdSOPmC4z4z8v_LrBID0TzcZrNKp9pJn-nE_78Ws9-B0FrrjIiRl1QsQ-S4/s320/Karstadt+at+night+golocal+de.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: golocal.de</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzrm5RVCtmYrjoZB6S_MKee4TYQKQ9HKILQs7bmeTNAg4zH01eJLmpBJrbE_8lgD7DrGdaonLJKx8QlMk3-IqyZggm5Q9mftfSADlBW6ux1Y2kDB_24eeoVnUY7K0wggjVsYOsW5_sQE/s1600/leopoldplatz-wedding-0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMzrm5RVCtmYrjoZB6S_MKee4TYQKQ9HKILQs7bmeTNAg4zH01eJLmpBJrbE_8lgD7DrGdaonLJKx8QlMk3-IqyZggm5Q9mftfSADlBW6ux1Y2kDB_24eeoVnUY7K0wggjVsYOsW5_sQE/s320/leopoldplatz-wedding-0.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leopoldplatz - Photo: berlinwedding.de</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-39113302558706050992016-10-06T04:28:00.000-07:002016-10-22T02:31:21.342-07:00Happy Reunification Week - or, boat trips aren't just for tourists<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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Three days ago, 3 October, was the German Day of Reunification, and everyone except
bus drivers, doctors and Angela Merkel was officially on holiday. So although I
am currently <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">always</i> on holiday at the
moment, I used the time to write rather than answer emails, attend to my
website, clean the cat litter tray or do any of the hundred and one other
things that a non-employed person has to do. After all, reunification day seemed like a good time to stop and reflect. And in the light of what's going on all across Europe - even here in oh-so-liberal Berlin, with the far-right party Alternative f<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%;">ü</span>r Deutschland getting seats in the Berlin Senate all across the city last month - reflecting on your history and looking for freedom can't be a bad thing...even without David Hasselhoff at the Brandenburger Tor. I prefer to do it on my sofa for now, gazing out of the window... </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuAiDt-wT4lV2q8ZcKKHhbdOT16gR0y07614EBjMrm3KGgpRaRwQ5j_JfjT7vOvcx1hEGGzuCEnI2GaqGVZTisILqsM4iPh_YsuE3RQJ0jqRWJfcxHZP9wNAszMA6FnJvH2kSznJa_-Y/s1600/Canal+path.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuAiDt-wT4lV2q8ZcKKHhbdOT16gR0y07614EBjMrm3KGgpRaRwQ5j_JfjT7vOvcx1hEGGzuCEnI2GaqGVZTisILqsM4iPh_YsuE3RQJ0jqRWJfcxHZP9wNAszMA6FnJvH2kSznJa_-Y/s320/Canal+path.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a day of brilliant autumn sunshine, white clouds
moving across a bright blue sky and golden leaves falling outside,
the sky is now darkening. The wind
is getting stronger, the tree-tops swaying against grey clouds. It's a day like our boat trip day, last week when we took
the opportunity to jump on the boat that chugs along the canal at the end of
our street.</div>
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It was the last opportunity this year. It's the end of the season,
and the weather was to match: autumnal winds chasing the leaves down the path,
conkers smashing to the ground, grey skies but a sense of movement and
excitement in the air. And cycling down to the canal is like taking a trip away
already. It's just five minutes by bike, but there's a whole country's history
wrapped up in those five minutes, if you know where to look.</div>
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We jump and trip down the four flights of steps in our
house, which is one of many built in Zehlendorf in the late 1950s as part of a
'Siedlung', an estate – or no, that conjures up the wrong image entirely – a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">settlement</i> in what was then the American
sector. And like an American suburb, it's green and leafy, with tidily marked
out gardens and huge old trees, wide streets and neat lawns that separate the blocks from each
other. Some of the streets are circular, so it's easy to get lost, and the
quiet is at time uncanny for Berlin: respectable people walking their obedient
dogs pass at a distance, figures moving across the landscape in the silence of
the afternoon with just rustling leaves as a background noise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The summer was noisier; at its height, the
balconies, covered in flowers, were like holiday homes with middle-aged German
couples sitting eating breakfast amongst the geraniums or calling to each other
across the street.</div>
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Yet this American suburb is just yards away from what was
once the Wall. We wander down to Sachtlebenstrasse
and into the paths that vanish off from it, finding our way down through
allotments to reach an overgrown lake, filled with reedbeds and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">sneeping</i> birds and more dog-walkers, or
teenagers hanging out, as teenagers do, in groups around – sometimes even on –
benches. The sounds of a baseball game reaches us faintly from the nearby pitch, but here, we're already on
what was once forbidden territory. Soon we will reach the border itself, marked
by a double line of smooth grey stones set into the ground that follow the path
of the Wall all through and around Berlin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here the neat cycle-path on Sachtlebenstrasse abruptly ends, turning
into a gravelly track, dusty cobblestones and overgrown brambles and shrubs. As
we continue on down the bumpy path, we cross old iron tracks;
to our right, after the goats that peer out at us from the "Small Animals
Breeding Centre", is a small, apparently abandoned industrial area, where
ancient cars stand anarchically crowded together beyond wire fences, and old brick
warehouses and barracks are labelled with mysterious new, post-industrial
company names ("SFX Berlin"), although no people ever seem to be
actually in them. Contractors sit around smoking outside the
fence, while middle-aged men in Lycra or hand-knitted eco-hats pedal at speed towards the canal and
grunt incomprehensible complaints or shout business information to each other.
Here there was once a "hole" in the Berlin Wall where spies were smuggled through from East to West (apparently there was a good bus service...). Before that, it was a shipping yard with warehouses to load the many cargo ships that went up and down the Teltow Canal
to the greater German Reich eastwards. Today ships still come up from what is
now Poland, chugging on northwards into Berlin and perhaps further to Kiel.</div>
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But this is unknown, still inaccessible country (though
there are plans for regeneration), and we are headed for the canal. We swing
round through the dark woods on to a suddenly bright pathway where to our left,
horses belonging to the Zehlendorf stables graze peacefully in rich green
meadows and buzzards call above the trees. To our right, the reedbeds are
swaying in the wind and the canal itself is glittering in the sun, until the clouds return and we know it is autumn now.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63qYJoKaXi5dwAXSsiICcCxADmJ-PlGU3gf2mXcq4n3ZwA6x8eQuu4J8zzyo3GAe3hf6RyXm-Y7ALizoVph2ItYGNdgcY3k3lsxv4kSXgtuDlZOzNE8UO82TkgU3osN35wl8Z4QaB_WE/s1600/Do+I+really+have+to+get+on+a+boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63qYJoKaXi5dwAXSsiICcCxADmJ-PlGU3gf2mXcq4n3ZwA6x8eQuu4J8zzyo3GAe3hf6RyXm-Y7ALizoVph2ItYGNdgcY3k3lsxv4kSXgtuDlZOzNE8UO82TkgU3osN35wl8Z4QaB_WE/s320/Do+I+really+have+to+get+on+a+boat.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sensible clothing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By the time the boat arrives, a whole group of middle-aged
people has gathered at the landing station, excited and chattery, sensibly
dressed in anoraks, "solid footwork" (as the Germans call it) and
with cameras at the ready. Once on the boat, we see that we are among the more
recklessly clad tourists; the majority are not just wearing anoraks, scarves
and hats but are swaddled in blankets provided by the shipping company.
We nip to a seat at the very front, which a gentle German lady offers to us hesitantly:
"My friends have been downstairs in the cafe for quite a while now, I
don't think I can really keep their seats for them any more." Well aware
of the peril involved, we gingerly sit down, awaiting any moment the return of
her friends...but for now, all seems to be well.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbA16UFEl2hz3WhnUHRz2BlAqJBc7A1btjgHh_hCQfUjZ6YEhFN3TZsCQLpCtgiEE5nr6WFYq6S76dxa57atjxk1xMz3DyOV8g_X-UpDMgvM4lmfA0tCgPdmK-nqFctXbwb0g03FRZ9ps/s1600/The+boat+approaches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbA16UFEl2hz3WhnUHRz2BlAqJBc7A1btjgHh_hCQfUjZ6YEhFN3TZsCQLpCtgiEE5nr6WFYq6S76dxa57atjxk1xMz3DyOV8g_X-UpDMgvM4lmfA0tCgPdmK-nqFctXbwb0g03FRZ9ps/s320/The+boat+approaches.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLoAElQAlS87ssklHaz2xswky2Aw3DYJ-O4sFQFFTMRZt_gZej6pI0Kjn7OSKpwVfBBeqrfIXnz8V2BdCJlN_zdVeLo9pVdtjLK1HMhaoRbo2SsIjNi2TtRv33Jb9Hm9xBI4bBwM53XBg/s1600/Teltow+Canal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLoAElQAlS87ssklHaz2xswky2Aw3DYJ-O4sFQFFTMRZt_gZej6pI0Kjn7OSKpwVfBBeqrfIXnz8V2BdCJlN_zdVeLo9pVdtjLK1HMhaoRbo2SsIjNi2TtRv33Jb9Hm9xBI4bBwM53XBg/s320/Teltow+Canal.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The boat makes its way down the canal, stopping only to pick
up an elderly lady, whose presence is announced by tannoy prior to stopping:
"We will shortly be making a stop to pick up an elderly lady who regularly
gets this boat to Wannsee from her old people's home." She jumps on nimbly and we're off again. The history
of Kleinmachnow, Teltow and the upcoming ship's lock rattles past us; artists,
dockyards, airships (the first ones were invented here apparently), new
apartments, cronyism..."What was that?" Mel keeps nudging me for a
translation, but there is so much history, I can't keep up. "I think she
said there was corruption involved in building some of the new
apartments..." I hope I'm not slandering someone here; then again, it's
always going to be true of some building or other...</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Teltow, from the canal, is a surprise. Far from the grey,
industrial, half-finished blocks of giant American stores that still stretch
for miles along the main road, we now see chic apartment blocks, a new
hospital, beautiful balconies and gardens, a snazzy hotel, villas...it looks
like somewhere you might even want to live. I never visited it in the old days;
unlike Kleinmachnow, it was never beautiful, mysterious or inviting. Unlike
Kleinmachnow, it was clearly where the workers had had to live, rather than the
Stasi officials. Its crumbling DDR buildings, after the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Wende</i>, gave way to huge car showrooms and huge billboards for the
newly sprung up hypermarkets alongside desperate, smaller advertising for its remaining
little shops; a grey pallor hung over it in the early 90s, a hopelessness and
sense of betrayal that I wanted to avoid as much as possible. But in the
meantime, it's changed beyond recognition, or at least some of it has; the
ancient town centre has been beautifully restored and it has become a desirable
place to live, in commuting distance of Berlin yet still fairly cheap, unlike
Kleinmachow.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RiSKZlCYEXgM42K6Rs97zRfUKcttygeFTVAa-NyCITJM4TfStECTVOHYQOYB91MuTFmgrj4_dznsVWMgh4tax1PF4fKtm8fElFDVFFEPMFi0jKQ8XPHJIKakk1Y7IzftzHXPDTSEoyw/s1600/Lock%252C+Kleinmachnow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RiSKZlCYEXgM42K6Rs97zRfUKcttygeFTVAa-NyCITJM4TfStECTVOHYQOYB91MuTFmgrj4_dznsVWMgh4tax1PF4fKtm8fElFDVFFEPMFi0jKQ8XPHJIKakk1Y7IzftzHXPDTSEoyw/s320/Lock%252C+Kleinmachnow.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
But it's soon past and we are heading into the Machnower
See, the Kleinmachnow lake with its castle topping the hill beside it and thick
woodlands hiding herons and cormorants. Now we are approaching the lock and
watch spellbound as the weights and counter-weights move the doors so that tonnes
of water can flood in. Meanwhile, the prior owners of our seats have returned,
just an hour after we got on...I face front, pretending I don't understand
German as an argument ensues behind me: "Gisele! Why didn't you defend our
places? What happened? Anne, look! Our seats have gone!" A tactful
response from Gisele: "Ah, well, you see, so many people got on, there was
nothing I could do, there was such a rush." "And our blankets? Have
you at least saved our blankets from being stolen?" Gisele: "Dear
me! They seem to have vanished!" I half-turn and wink at Gisele, who gives
me a small smile of recognition.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4b_xmCjdy4KVejFFGWq9Sf7xvZt7QDtg73k8VtBt7cqpVk0G3LX9bAvwA8kwtLyF4r_UyELrTIRmtAFOK9E691WqQkgJYSl6ZsAcBNJlXIzk3uVMEcyLbQTUl_b9vQZ-GEJ3KqkyS4Fk/s1600/going+through+the+lock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4b_xmCjdy4KVejFFGWq9Sf7xvZt7QDtg73k8VtBt7cqpVk0G3LX9bAvwA8kwtLyF4r_UyELrTIRmtAFOK9E691WqQkgJYSl6ZsAcBNJlXIzk3uVMEcyLbQTUl_b9vQZ-GEJ3KqkyS4Fk/s320/going+through+the+lock.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading through the lock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcqDrTqUtxUUAYxt323nO5RdrRkKKtP61vQWB6n4XTMKpi5mBxmh817DTepyJ_W187g5vVaj72231-0hiIbppQtAckiF4Ma5OgNeCuCK8hxguXBgaYeGYlMVZTNv08yJMdF2ybjyLLxA/s1600/Abandoned+bridges.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUcqDrTqUtxUUAYxt323nO5RdrRkKKtP61vQWB6n4XTMKpi5mBxmh817DTepyJ_W187g5vVaj72231-0hiIbppQtAckiF4Ma5OgNeCuCK8hxguXBgaYeGYlMVZTNv08yJMdF2ybjyLLxA/s320/Abandoned+bridges.jpg" width="320" /></a>Now we are on our way to Babelsberg and Wannsee. Rusting
bridges and a former Stasi watchtower, now turned into a campsite cafe, go
past; a quiet cycle track accompanies the canal. Stories are told, but one is
missed out: the story of the young man from West Berlin in the 1960s who
unwittingly steered a rowing boat, with himself and his girlfriend on board,
into Eastern territory and was shot in the back as he desperately tried to
steer back to the West. These woods still feel so quiet and hidden that
anything could happen...and indeed, on our bike ride here, we did pass a small,
mysterious man, wearing a too-big suit, a purple tie and a felt hat, carrying
two bulging carrier bags of papers, quite alone, who passed us on the bike
track and continued on into the woods...<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiviBeBeqSgTpZ76yKZg1i6d1To959ylu-EGV01wpv4BRD1L7gq91oR4OhH5ppHQDWDGFqq4am7Af8LDWJuFyCJ0ZjN7e-w206iVNdHkT91nEFXlJQV8gRiHtgDNXEHwdWw43kELJYsVpI/s1600/Rent-a-Raft.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiviBeBeqSgTpZ76yKZg1i6d1To959ylu-EGV01wpv4BRD1L7gq91oR4OhH5ppHQDWDGFqq4am7Af8LDWJuFyCJ0ZjN7e-w206iVNdHkT91nEFXlJQV8gRiHtgDNXEHwdWw43kELJYsVpI/s320/Rent-a-Raft.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rafts for hire</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglNa43lYYRFuWrojD8E7xPVAL5CIzNO6kdejlesPruhzQo9T5cvViEl9jECFOEnHtiw83c3osi-BUVb4SyVLOxXQiLMs74MhoTrq5nH91IL2hAhtUYlbPsQXbyfwcOd5dKSwA10-4pJHM/s1600/Engine+House%252C+Babelsberg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglNa43lYYRFuWrojD8E7xPVAL5CIzNO6kdejlesPruhzQo9T5cvViEl9jECFOEnHtiw83c3osi-BUVb4SyVLOxXQiLMs74MhoTrq5nH91IL2hAhtUYlbPsQXbyfwcOd5dKSwA10-4pJHM/s320/Engine+House%252C+Babelsberg.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Babelsberg Engine House</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hZs5vod-Tw-fR1zsJiajchfjSUP466xHlIeyaT_-BwkXDhuS-qWR_6wDDmaldxoqZA7asNqMi0G1a2SUDVj6JR9O0yoriA31vjgy00H4gv8zFZcPD8U6rT3YYeNr9VDrzL4IIxDEzQA/s1600/Glienicker+Bruecke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hZs5vod-Tw-fR1zsJiajchfjSUP466xHlIeyaT_-BwkXDhuS-qWR_6wDDmaldxoqZA7asNqMi0G1a2SUDVj6JR9O0yoriA31vjgy00H4gv8zFZcPD8U6rT3YYeNr9VDrzL4IIxDEzQA/s320/Glienicker+Bruecke.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glienicker Bruecke (where the spies used to hang out)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Babelsberg is beautiful – a landscaped park in the English
style, with a fairy-tale castle peeping from the trees and a number of less
fairy-tale-like, but still lovely, engine houses and brick sheds from the
1800s. We swam here the other week when it was 30 degrees in the shade; now
there's a chill in the air and, as we sweep around to Wannsee, the wind hits us
full on, waves hitting the bows as we enter the huge lake and look around:
Potsdam to the east of us, Wannsee itself to the west, Peacock Island straight
ahead. The last half hour passes all too quickly; a sense of enormous space and
calm fills these waterways, as if we were travelling across the sea, rather
than an inland lake. It is hard to get your bearings, although there is the
Heilandskirche where I saw the Blessing of the Boats in July...but that's a
whole other story.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPGuMIRwS3IUT6oxTZkrI1e75E2eE4yPsXtv7WNiNMWnRjQPsBlpxCDdeBcy4YZSd6TrVvNAMD1PHHfh8GFMhyw90H4R9gkovV_QxzTo4Xv3xgKqjnVUYi9vUs2MX0AsM9wQDGcUMEOg/s1600/Heilandskirche.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLPGuMIRwS3IUT6oxTZkrI1e75E2eE4yPsXtv7WNiNMWnRjQPsBlpxCDdeBcy4YZSd6TrVvNAMD1PHHfh8GFMhyw90H4R9gkovV_QxzTo4Xv3xgKqjnVUYi9vUs2MX0AsM9wQDGcUMEOg/s320/Heilandskirche.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heilandskirche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Descending from the boat in Wannsee, we buy pumpkin and
chanterelles at a roadside stall before getting the S-Bahn home. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We smile at each other, overcome by the
loveliness of the day. And I am surprised at how much I have learned. When I lived in Kleinmachnow in the early days, back in 1992, 1993, I was so young;
I wanted atmosphere, excitement, emotion; I wanted the city. But now when I
look back, what I remember is not so much Berlin, but those dark winter days
and nights spent in the depths of what was then a semi-hidden place
"j.w.d." as the Berliners call it (janz weit draussen, out in the sticks) that no-one I met in
Berlin had ever heard of or was the least bit interested in. The glittering
stars in the freezing nights as I cycled home at three in the morning (no buses
went to Kleinmachnow after 6 pm); the snuffling of wild boar in the tangled
trees at the roadside; the hesitant, intensely shy interest showed by the
Kleinmachnowers in what on earth an English girl was doing there; the scent of
the damp autumn leaves and the bonfires; they all have helped make me into the
person I am now.But I knew very few facts.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Thank you, boat trip people, for filling me in on my own
history.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2TDXKZRVAAxOnrHPYdinCu5LyDJxp0QVALNZ4NGf9OZh8PE-WJxPLTRgKlVNivfuDtAavdohGc03x8SyDwp2drrx6BgbBl2IvQmHtbVKywiqY7A_IsEd1vxRCaGUfo-gAPcNcfpdVA0Y/s1600/Machnower+See.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2TDXKZRVAAxOnrHPYdinCu5LyDJxp0QVALNZ4NGf9OZh8PE-WJxPLTRgKlVNivfuDtAavdohGc03x8SyDwp2drrx6BgbBl2IvQmHtbVKywiqY7A_IsEd1vxRCaGUfo-gAPcNcfpdVA0Y/s320/Machnower+See.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Machnower See </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4180291431466154126.post-50761092767004515042016-10-06T04:26:00.001-07:002016-10-11T01:44:43.964-07:00Gemüsings; or, why root vegetables rule history<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">(Gemüse, das</span></i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-GB;">:
[noun, neutral] Plants whose various parts can be eaten either raw or cooked.
See also <i>junges Gemüse</i>, lit. "young vegetables": young people
with no experience of life)</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><img alt="Teltower Rübchen" class="mw-mmv-final-image jpg mw-mmv-dialog-is-open" height="180" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0c/Brassica_rapa_ssp_rapa_var_pygmaea.jpg/800px-Brassica_rapa_ssp_rapa_var_pygmaea.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The Teltow Turnip - washed (Source: Wikipedia)</span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8H0jVTF0jvPD6YoTkFmqBSN13DA7lKT73W7aKBECza1ZEjW2MpfvCe0AVVAatebmic8HhbxJ0_ilaUV5RzGSxZXBGa_JNO2PN99v_Tq309e6EMdnaewIP_S6BZOdePMab0mIcos0g9S4/s1600/P1080570.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8H0jVTF0jvPD6YoTkFmqBSN13DA7lKT73W7aKBECza1ZEjW2MpfvCe0AVVAatebmic8HhbxJ0_ilaUV5RzGSxZXBGa_JNO2PN99v_Tq309e6EMdnaewIP_S6BZOdePMab0mIcos0g9S4/s200/P1080570.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Teltow Turnip - unwashed</td></tr>
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<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
I
love new things, new people, new places, new ideas in particular. But Mel and I
also love everyday life. Especially the daily celebrations of life that arise
in the strangest places and amongst the strangest things or are simply planned
to be enjoyable. Like boat trips for example. Or returning again and
again to one's favourite cafe. Or visiting Ikea. Or vegetable festivals...</div>
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Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
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This
autumn has been an eye-opener. Alongside art festivals and photography
exhibitions, new books and new music, we've realised that in and around Berlin,
people are nursing a secret passion. Wherever we've looked, we've been
confronted with advertisements for vegetables. Pumpkin festivals (with a
Champion Pumpkin Carver from America and a giant eagle made of pumpkins). Apple
days. Harvest Festival Fruit and Vegetable Celebration days. And our favourite
so far: the Teltow Turnip Festival. Yes, Teltow, the unassuming town that lies
to the south of our canal, was once singled out by cultural luminaries like
Goethe and Kant to provide them with their favourite delicacy, the Teltow
Turnip, or '"Teltower Rübchen".</div>
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<div style="line-height: 115%; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
But
what <i>is </i>it?<i> </i>From the pictures we saw in the Tourist Information
Office, we couldn't make out exactly what vegetable this was referring to. We'd
already encountered the local fascination with root veg in our previous
incarnation in Berlin, with Mel excitedly returning from a shopping trip to say
she had bought "Wurzelbrot" – bread made of carrots, turnips and
potatoes. Mel's upbringing in Lincolnshire and family obsession with Worzel
Gummidge suddenly clicked in her mind: "That's why we have mangelwurzels!"
But I don't think we'd ever come across a King and Queen of the Turnips
before...</div>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
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I
have now learned that the Teltow Turnip (<i>Brassica rapa</i> L. subsp. <i>rapa</i>
f. <i>teltowiensis, </i>according to Wikipedia; see also
http://www.teltower-ruebchen.com/de/teltower_ruebchen )<i> </i>has a special
history all of its own. Introduced by Frederick the Great to Brandenburg in the
eighteenth century, after he had learned of them from an English farmer, they
were grown and sent abroad in barrels of sand (for Brandenburg and Berlin are
built on sand – I can't help feeling this is appropriate...). They were also
eaten en masse by the peasants, a poor people's food, easy and cheap to
produce. DDR officials, however, insisted on mass-production along Soviet
lines, and the Teltow Turnip could not keep up. Since reunification, therefore,
it's become a symbol, to Teltowers, of a way of life - more regional, more
local - that they perhaps wish they could have kept. The name of the turnip was
patented in 1994, an Appreciation Society founded in 1998, and smallholdings
and farms have been producing them again for local restaurants, while the
Tourist Board has produced a whole array of merchandise to go with them, which
Mel eagerly pounces upon: "I've got to have a turnip keyring!"</div>
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So a Turnip
Festival seems only logical in the general regenerative mood of things around
here, and the Teltowers have entered into it with gusto. We decide to join
them, and on a stiflingly hot Sunday afternoon, we make our way through
post-industrial landscapes of abandoned factories and mysterious concrete
estates behind wire fencing – and one refugee home, set down in the middle of
this alienating world – to eventually join the troops of people wandering down
towards the Ruhlsdorfer Pond, which is where the festival is being held. The
crowd is buzzing and a market has been set up that reaches all the way around
the park; at the end of the market is a large stage with the empty carriage of
the Turnip Royal Couple, in the shape of a giant turnip. Sadly we have missed
their entrance, but there is still lots to see: award-winning cheesecake, a man
who farms bees so that children can learn about honey-making (he had brought a
selection of bees), a children's dance about harvesting the turnips, and of
course, the turnips themselves. A huge queue stretches out from the vegetable
stall. The woman who represents the Appreciation Society hands me a leaflet and
urges me not to delay: "There aren't many turnips this year, the weather's
been too dry." So I queue up too, and am rewarded by a bag of very muddy,
very dusty small vegetables that do in fact resemble the one on Mel's
keyring....Once home, and after about six washings to remove the mud – which
sticks darkly to the bottom of the sink, refusing to be washed away – the
cooked turnips turn out to be sweet, warming and faintly tart, more like
radishes than parsnips or potatoes, and we agree that Goethe and Kant were not
wrong.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZ0Arb-yRMtt414k1iD0NnLr-emac37YH_VrhUJXIMkP2adS_8D51sfsy1SHzmFIqsGy6avCUfjv89xVrGigZFB0Uuzf8q2gKdULP7UI_eMdEnXN_vmtT5rN41ziKpXWPO2CUoAGqYMU/s1600/P1080566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZ0Arb-yRMtt414k1iD0NnLr-emac37YH_VrhUJXIMkP2adS_8D51sfsy1SHzmFIqsGy6avCUfjv89xVrGigZFB0Uuzf8q2gKdULP7UI_eMdEnXN_vmtT5rN41ziKpXWPO2CUoAGqYMU/s320/P1080566.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">How to get around without a car in Teltow</span></span></td></tr>
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Vegetables
and history: two things in life that cannot be avoided. I can't possibly tell
my hip friends in Berlin that we have been visiting the local turnip festival,
I think. "Isn't it run by neonazis?" they would say. Possibly, this
is true, but I think not; at least not entirely. History here is complicated,
politics even more so. Not everyone in Brandenburg votes for the right-wing,
worse-than-UKIP Alternative für Deutschland (AfD), while quite a few people in
Neukölln have just done so. </div>
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I
think my friends mean that it's a typically fascist thing to want to resurrect
local traditions - to revert to a nebulous German "identity" - in the
attempt to ward off the big bad world outside. But I wonder if there is more to
it than this. I too distrust the word "identity", and anyway, no-one, whether from Teltow or Torremolinos,
should base their identity on a turnip. But maybe a less harmful word is <i>local</i>.
Everyone is local to somewhere; and only people who are actually <i>there</i>,
wherever they come from originally, can <i>be </i>local and contribute to a place.
Local things so often go under, disappear; the signs of history can be covered
over and hidden under a vast garden centre or a billboard. Competing
ideologies, dictatorships and money can make it hard to keep track of your
history. So while in Somerset, I might well have distrusted a celebration of
root vegetables, here history is somewhat more complicated. As even a
turnip will tell you.</div>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXOIlMq4tG4LNeBd3JE8GPpJRbDWa0-D-eD9RdrUTWLEYNlX2nFvgGAZtKnBuPPRpCSKrGu3u1gabxjLango-SD0lOFMBNDUJG4ByevQ8kIbvrdZihrgZNvabIyzhtN2W8fZXPq7RWPk/s1600/P1080571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXOIlMq4tG4LNeBd3JE8GPpJRbDWa0-D-eD9RdrUTWLEYNlX2nFvgGAZtKnBuPPRpCSKrGu3u1gabxjLango-SD0lOFMBNDUJG4ByevQ8kIbvrdZihrgZNvabIyzhtN2W8fZXPq7RWPk/s320/P1080571.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and my turnip</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />islandladyemhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14933522033024864381noreply@blogger.com0